vincemacpaul

Thanks jethat. That might be it. It's in the gameplan, but I'm gonna work on the less laborious things before I jump off that bridge. I'm old and lazy, haha.

jethat

Well the alternator on these engines isnt to tough to get off. I'm thinking I can have it off in a half hour and I to am old fat and lazy.

vincemacpaul

Agree. After maintaining 3 grown kiddie's, an X and a half's and my own vehicles the last 45 years+ (I'm 64), I can remove the pivot bolt, tensioner bolt and unplug the electrics on any alternator with the proper tools and lighting in less that 2 I bet. Along with starters, radiators and all those weird things on the firewall. Haha. Unfortunately, we live in the world of computer do-dads that can tell you the size of your Johnson without turning a wrench and getting dirty. Thanks for the leg up though.

Jbrew

Make sure you check that fuse at the alternator harness. It's in-line, has it's own holder. They don't usually go bad, they pop out of the holder or part way and short. That can also pull your battery down in time. But yea, the fuse holder itself goes bad.

However, the truck should start and run without that fuse. Yes , the battery light will illuminate, but she should start and run just the same. Anyway, check that before halling the alt in.

vincemacpaul

Update: Spare working key lost in the mail, being tracked. Onward. Upon starting now, the "theft" light is on for 2-3 seconds and is off the last 8-10 seconds of a strong crank. On tip from AutoZone guy, checked the schrader valve in the fuel bus. No pressure. Alone here but only a few seconds from drivers seat to valve after a 10 second crank. Said it still should have some pressure. No. 15 slot "fuel pump" at fuse box is a 20 amp fuse, replaced with 2 new ones, nada. On to fuel pump. $13-$72 online. I have no problems with a $60 plug and pray chance. Will have a new pump anyway. Procedure is to drop the fuel tank or remove the bed and need a special tool. Tank is almost full (20 gals+) so that's out and removing the bed is more than my driveway mechanic skill I feel can tackle. But it's not out. Will check if I can rent the special pump tool and special socket to remove the bed. I've lumber and a come-along to build an a-frame. Advise, thoughts, sympathies welcome. All to avoid the 60 mile tow to the nearest Ford dealer to get raped with no smile. It will get fixed. Thanks again for all the help and Merry Christmas.

BadFish523

I didn't go back and read but have you replaced the FPDM? This is usually the first when someone is thinking fuel pump.

R&TBabich

The fuel pump will be turned on for a couple of seconds after Run is selected to pressurize the fuel rails.
It will not be turned on again until the PCM "sees" the engine turning with the crankshaft sensor.
So just selecting Run should pressure the fuel rails.
Ours will still have 20 psi after 1 day.
Be sure to test the output lead of the Inertia switch for 12v before changing the pump.
The fuel pump relay may be bad or the Inertia switch may have tripped or be bad.

vincemacpaul

Thanks BadFish. That gave me another path to go down. I've searched all the auto parts suppliers online including the Ford site and they have no listing for a FPDM for a 2000 F-150. I did find this somewhere "fuse 10 20amp to fuel pump relay controlled by pcm to inertia switch to the pump. There isn't a separate driver to speak of, the fp driver is the pcm" But opinions vary. Thanks though. Onward......

jethat

Pre 2003 has no FPDM. That was added in the 04 MY.

BadFish523

Shoot, sorry I forgot I was in the 10th gen section. No FPDM.