coachmoe

1999 F150 XLT 4x4 Supercab
189,000+ miles
2.5 Rough Country Level
285/75/17


Good afternoon fellas.
I recently installed the leveling kit on my daughter's truck. While under the truck I noticed the cv axles (both) had split boots. I will replace both axles this weekend.

I have a few questions.

1. Do I tweak the alignment with the adjustment sleeve on the tie rod in order to get the camber back to 0 degrees?

2. Is it possible for bad cv axles to cause negative camber?

3. Should I now install a caster/camber kit on the truck since installing the leveling kit?

I appreciate any advice or input.

ScrewThat

I'm not expert, but I believe adjusting the tie rod would effect toe.

Now, why don't you just leave it and be like the river scene? Lol jkjk

Camber kit would probably be beneficial. Someone with more experience will chime in I'm sure.

charliedyal

You can only adjust camber with eccentric camber bolts. Some trucks already have them, some dont. The adjustment is made where the upper control arm mounts to the frame. You'd better have an alignment shop do it. All cv boots eventually split. Lifted trucks a little faster due to steeper angles.

Jbrew

Right have an alignment shop do it. I've done it myself but it's a PITA to get perfect. It's worth the expense. Also the more wear you have on components, the harder that is to accomplish. Alignment shops will also offer a CAM kit, if they feel it necessary. From what I recall it's about 50 bucks for it , - 60 bucks for the alignment.

EDIT: BTW- I'd stay away from a Cam Kit if you can. A Cam kit makes the front end more vulnerable/more ways to get thrown out of alignment. One good pot hole is all it takes. This of course has to be weighed with which is best for the particular condition/situation.. Cam kits often become necessary once you play with the pre-load with these front ends or/and when its just worn.

Red-Ford

I second the staying away from cam kits. I got it when I first got my truck and it wasn't to bad, maybe an alignment every 6 months or so? now I have the lift and 35" tires and I'm in the shop about ever month / month and a half. Roads out my way are pretty bad, I just got the lifetime alignment for 200 something so I don't have to worry about it. It's so bad sometimes they will call me and tell me I may need an alignment lol.

EDIT: I think it may be because I might have a bent frame because my truck was wrecked at one point and put on a rebuild title, and I never get all green numbers, there is always 1 red number when they are done.

coachmoe

I certainly appreciat all of the feedback gentlemen. I'm scheduled to have my daughter's truck in the shop tomorrow morning to have it's alignment adjusted.

Side note; After alot of research, eyeballing, and going through a process of elimination, I had the presence of mind to call Rough Country customer service. I spoke with a dude that was extremely helpful and he immediately knew what was causing such bad negative camber. He asked me to measure front the center of the hub to the lip on the fender. I did. I was almost 3 inches too high, which meant I had turned the torsion keys too tight. I back off the adjustment screw til I got to 24" from hub to fender lip. It corrected the severe negative camber and the extremely terrible angles I had on the axles and control arms.

Holicori

Good to know! Thanks

Jbrew

Dang good info! I'm plenty familiar with the problem, but I didn't know over crankage caused this issue. Yea, ride height spec should be able to be had on the internet. If not, it's on just about all Ford service DVD's and/or ALLData.

Your the first I've seen that posted the cause of the front wheel (passenger side mostly I believe) turning inward (tow).

Also, IF the bars are cranked too much, it a PITA for a alignment shop to get her aligned with keeping the steering straight at the same time. Over cranking also causes shock bushing wear and killer bump-steer lol.

Thanks for posting.