Phil48315

I buy the roll and bend and flare myself, but I have a hydraulic flare tool.
I live 10 min. from "In-line Tube"...... I have bought some of their stainless kits for restoration work too.

10thGenScab

It's starting to look like that would be easier...

10thGenScab

Yes... thank you. The box is staying off until the rockers are done. My dilema now is to see how far up the rot goes and decide if the doors have to come off too. I really don't want to do that as I'm working outside, but may not have a choice.

Regarding the bed bolts, 4 came out but 2 needed to be introduced to the cut off wheel. The surviving 4 don't look so great, so I'll be finding replacements. Time to do some searching.

I lost yesterday due to work and kid stuff in the evening, so tonight I'll spend some time with a flap wheel and work on that frame a bit.

Thanks for the tip on that brake line kit... I'm going to go with that.

10thGenScab

Actually, it was easy to find bed bolts. May be a tiny bit pricey, but has all the clips, washers, etc and no shipping fee:
I also ordered the brake line kit from Rockauto I listed earlier based solely on Jbrew's approval. So when I screw this up it's all on him.

10thGenScab

Regarding welding, I've only ever disconnected the battery before. Should I also be disconnecting the PCM?

Jbrew

Yea, just blame me...wouldn't be the first time I've been cussed.

I wouldn't use Dorman on bed bolts, I seriously doubt they meet spec hardness. I'd opt for OEM there, like these, -

https://www.ebay.com/itm/02-Ford-F35...frcectupt=true

Those are OEM 400 series stainless ^^^

___________________

Yes , disconnect the PCM with these trucks. I smoked the PCM before eventually finding ground in coil #4. The coil cracked around the very bottom separating it from the top . Stretched the windings about another 1/4". That's what kept it in one stretched piece...the coil windings lol.

Yea, disconnect the PCM. That shouldn't of happened....keep the ground close to your work. I don't use a welding clamp anymore. Pull the clamp and vise grip the ground cable to bare metal. Best way anyway with 14 gauge body metal.

10thGenScab

point taken!

10thGenScab

For the life of me, I can't get the tailgate off the bed. The right side with the cutout comes off the post no problem, but then slightly pivoting and pulling to come off the left post isn't even budging. Any tips? I had me and a buddy taking turns holding and pulling together, but no luck. I tapped on the end of the tail with a rubber mallet and still nothing. Is that little bit of rubber I see a bushing that I can burn out, then replace?

10thGenScab

Last night I began hitting the frame with a flap wheel to clean it up. I did the left-rear area and put a coat of Rust Reformer on it. Tonight, the goal is to grind and paint the right side, then go back to the left and install the new leaf spring bracket and shackle. I am admittedly only hitting the inside of the frame rails with a wire brush instead of the grinder. It's too tight to get in there on anything other than the most exposed portions. I also have a knotted-wire wheel for the grinder that I'll try... it may fit in there a little better.

Apdl

Yeah, i'm gonna need progress pics of this frame...