Manifold back exhaust question
02-25-2019, 07:29 PM
#11
Senior Member
Working on exhaust is never fun or easy. That's because the components rust and fuse in place and have to cut out. I've replaced the the up-streams myself once on these models. My first and last time about 11 years ago. The up stream cats connect to the manifold ball, you won't have to cut it there, HOWEVER, you' ll have to remove the manifold exhaust flange bolts (2 bolts bolts per manifold). Your chances of success are pretty good, I removed 3 of the 4 successfully then broke one. If that happens your going need a few good drill bits, the bits MUST be Cobalt M42 series (must be M42 HSS solid cobalt bits, NOT M32 coated, like say DeWalt bits) or you won't have much success drilling that out with the manifold in place. If you don't have a jobber set in your arsenal yet, this is what you want for automotive -
https://www.amazon.com/Cobalt-Drill-.../dp/B014U8P3M2
So that's ^^^ the only problem you MIGHT have at the manifold ball connection. Pre-treating the bolts with a good penetrate such as Kroil or PB Blaster would help..Kroil is better is you can take the smell lol.
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The connection to the exhaust side will have to be cut. If it were me, this is were I would eliminate the rear cat completely and piece in a metal pipe section. You don't require the rear cat on this vehicle, exhaust shops won't use a dual cat set-up on these trucks anymore..obsolete. They use one compliant cat vs two now a days. In this case (your case) , the upstream by itself is plenty. Your AF's are well within parameter margins of the factory software (tune). What this means, No CEL, -the vehicle will perform fine, perhaps a little better if anything and you'll will pass MOST emissions testings. So offing the rears at this time would make things much easier and in most cases (states), legal to run. In other words, you don't have to sweat removing the rears. I included this info in my reply because your not going to have much choice once you get into replacing the upstreams. The rear cats are too close to the upstreams to fudge a solid connection to without the correct tools for that job. You make that decision when you come to it, you'll see exactly what I mean once you get into it.
https://www.amazon.com/Cobalt-Drill-.../dp/B014U8P3M2
So that's ^^^ the only problem you MIGHT have at the manifold ball connection. Pre-treating the bolts with a good penetrate such as Kroil or PB Blaster would help..Kroil is better is you can take the smell lol.
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The connection to the exhaust side will have to be cut. If it were me, this is were I would eliminate the rear cat completely and piece in a metal pipe section. You don't require the rear cat on this vehicle, exhaust shops won't use a dual cat set-up on these trucks anymore..obsolete. They use one compliant cat vs two now a days. In this case (your case) , the upstream by itself is plenty. Your AF's are well within parameter margins of the factory software (tune). What this means, No CEL, -the vehicle will perform fine, perhaps a little better if anything and you'll will pass MOST emissions testings. So offing the rears at this time would make things much easier and in most cases (states), legal to run. In other words, you don't have to sweat removing the rears. I included this info in my reply because your not going to have much choice once you get into replacing the upstreams. The rear cats are too close to the upstreams to fudge a solid connection to without the correct tools for that job. You make that decision when you come to it, you'll see exactly what I mean once you get into it.
Also, don't get me wrong, you can keep your downstream cats. To do so, the tricky part will be locating an adapter that will join the two back together. To do so correctly and get a good seal would be to incorporate a sleeved clamp, that would make it easy, -
However, to use a clamp like this (sleeved butt joint clamp) both side need to be the same size. They won't work if the pipe on either side differs as much as a 16th of an inch. Otherwise a sleeved clamp is out of the question. You would have to opt for an offset band type clamp or a rigid adapter perfectly sized. That being said, you may not have a choice and deleting the rear cat may be the only option. The ONLY cheap option anyway and one you could get away with doing yourself.
Yea, -If you have to take it into an exhaust shop for anything, just have them do the complete job. That will cost that way regardless, doing anything yourself would be a waste of energy, time and cash. Print the last two posts (I wrapped them together for yuh) and read them while lying under the truck, quickest way to understand what I'm saying, as well as determining what to do.
Good Luck.
02-27-2019, 08:01 PM
#12
Junior Member
Thread Starter
So I called today and to remove the 4 cats and put in a single cat on each side (universal) and muffler they quoted me $600 Does that sound about right?
02-27-2019, 10:50 PM
#13
Senior Member
120-140 to do yourself, 600 farmed out.
Also, just a fyi, for 600 you could also purchase a magnaflow direct fit set up complete. That's includes the entire exhaust Y and 4 cats..basically back to your original set up. However, that's the cost for parts not install. Those aren't cheap either
Anyway, the 600 quote sounds fair to me.