Made it home (just barely)
02-19-2019, 09:43 PM
#21
I'm *NOT* Skylar...
Thread Starter
Update... after sitting for about 20 hours with no charger on it, the battery recovered enough to start the truck (barely). I took a voltage reading across the battery terminals and it started at 11v and was dropping as it ran. I pulled the alternator and will drop it off for a bench test tomorrow at lunchtime. In the meantime, I put a charger on the battery for the night tonight. if it takes a charge and is still in decent shape when i get home from work tomorrow, then I think I'll be good with a new alt.
thanks for all suggestions... i think i got off easy.
thanks for all suggestions... i think i got off easy.
The following 2 users liked this post by 10thGenScab:
Burt Furffel (02-19-2019),
JCR 56 (02-20-2019)
02-19-2019, 10:17 PM
#22
Senior Member
Why remove the Alt ? Okay, so it's not charging ? Below 14.6 volts running maybe ? Did output vary at certain rpms....what ? Regulator check out ? Fuse ?
Yea, I don't understand why you removed it, sounds like you had the meter in hand and you said it started....what gives?
Yea, I don't understand why you removed it, sounds like you had the meter in hand and you said it started....what gives?
02-20-2019, 09:30 AM
#23
I'm *NOT* Skylar...
Thread Starter
Why remove the Alt ? Okay, so it's not charging ? Below 14.6 volts running maybe ? Did output vary at certain rpms....what ? Regulator check out ? Fuse ?
Yea, I don't understand why you removed it, sounds like you had the meter in hand and you said it started....what gives?
Yea, I don't understand why you removed it, sounds like you had the meter in hand and you said it started....what gives?
I think the only reason it started was that the battery is completely fine and slowly recovered while it sat during the workday yesterday. It just barely turned over enough to catch, but then ran. While running, the system dropped from 10.9v all the way down the 9v before i shut it down. No change with RPM. Fuse, continuity... all good. Given that the truck has 205k on it and i have no history with it before 193k, I willing to drop in a new alt and call it a day.
02-20-2019, 09:45 AM
#24
Junior Member
Sorry... not enough detail. It's just plain not charging at all, at any RPM. Constant drain. The battery took a charge from my external charger last night and was at 12.88v this morning after diving to 9v while running last night. I tested continuity and found no breaks.
I think the only reason it started was that the battery is completely fine and slowly recovered while it sat during the workday yesterday. It just barely turned over enough to catch, but then ran. While running, the system dropped from 10.9v all the way down the 9v before i shut it down. No change with RPM. Fuse, continuity... all good. Given that the truck has 205k on it and i have no history with it before 193k, I willing to drop in a new alt and call it a day.
I think the only reason it started was that the battery is completely fine and slowly recovered while it sat during the workday yesterday. It just barely turned over enough to catch, but then ran. While running, the system dropped from 10.9v all the way down the 9v before i shut it down. No change with RPM. Fuse, continuity... all good. Given that the truck has 205k on it and i have no history with it before 193k, I willing to drop in a new alt and call it a day.
Sounds like a good call.
Battery good. Nothing charging it.
02-20-2019, 09:49 AM
#25
Senior Member
02-20-2019, 10:01 AM
#26
I'm *NOT* Skylar...
Thread Starter
When I drop in a new Alt and the problem persists, I will eat as much humble pie as you can bake. 
Last edited by 10thGenScab; 02-20-2019 at 11:44 AM.
02-20-2019, 10:03 AM
#27
Senior Member
Sorry... not enough detail. It's just plain not charging at all, at any RPM. Constant drain. The battery took a charge from my external charger last night and was at 12.88v this morning after diving to 9v while running last night. I tested continuity and found no breaks.
I think the only reason it started was that the battery is completely fine and slowly recovered while it sat during the workday yesterday. It just barely turned over enough to catch, but then ran. While running, the system dropped from 10.9v all the way down the 9v before i shut it down. No change with RPM. Fuse, continuity... all good. Given that the truck has 205k on it and i have no history with it before 193k, I willing to drop in a new alt and call it a day.
I think the only reason it started was that the battery is completely fine and slowly recovered while it sat during the workday yesterday. It just barely turned over enough to catch, but then ran. While running, the system dropped from 10.9v all the way down the 9v before i shut it down. No change with RPM. Fuse, continuity... all good. Given that the truck has 205k on it and i have no history with it before 193k, I willing to drop in a new alt and call it a day.
02-20-2019, 10:07 AM
#28
Senior Member
02-20-2019, 05:23 PM
#29
Senior Member
If it were me and your vehicle still has the original alternator, I wouldn't let it go. Nine times out of ten the average person is going to end up with a very cheap replacement. Not that cheap in price, rather an overpriced sub standard unit that won't have near the longevity or quality your original had. My old 98 w/350,000 miles plus still uses the original large case 3G Motorcraft Alternator. They are very high quality and built. The 130amp of the era not only holds it's own, they max out at 160amps. But, I've updated the brushes twice which is a very simple procedure. Since the slip rings on the rotor seem to last forever as well as other internals, the old large case 3G's have made a name for themselves. They are most likely twice the product you'll get from 3rd party and then some.
Brushes, HD regulators w/12awg are cheap, so are 12 gauge fuse holders...very cheap. It's usually all it needs. Brushes last about 120,000 miles, replace them at 100,000. Ford did right w/gen 10 alts.
The thing to do here is at least pull the brushes to visually see how worn they are, -if there's anything left at all. Chances are, that's what's wrong. If you purchase a new alt, don't give them your old one if it's the original lol.
Brushes, HD regulators w/12awg are cheap, so are 12 gauge fuse holders...very cheap. It's usually all it needs. Brushes last about 120,000 miles, replace them at 100,000. Ford did right w/gen 10 alts.
The thing to do here is at least pull the brushes to visually see how worn they are, -if there's anything left at all. Chances are, that's what's wrong. If you purchase a new alt, don't give them your old one if it's the original lol.
02-20-2019, 06:02 PM
#30
I'm *NOT* Skylar...
Thread Starter
If it were me and your vehicle still has the original alternator, I wouldn't let it go. Nine times out of ten the average person is going to end up with a very cheap replacement. Not that cheap in price, rather an overpriced sub standard unit that won't have near the longevity or quality your original had. My old 98 w/350,000 miles plus still uses the original large case 3G Motorcraft Alternator. They are very high quality and built. The 130amp of the era not only holds it's own, they max out at 160amps. But, I've updated the brushes twice which is a very simple procedure. Since the slip rings on the rotor seem to last forever as well as other internals, the old large case 3G's have made a name for themselves. They are most likely twice the product you'll get from 3rd party and then some.
Brushes, HD regulators w/12awg are cheap, so are 12 gauge fuse holders...very cheap. It's usually all it needs. Brushes last about 120,000 miles, replace them at 100,000. Ford did right w/gen 10 alts.
The thing to do here is at least pull the brushes to visually see how worn they are, -if there's anything left at all. Chances are, that's what's wrong. If you purchase a new alt, don't give them your old one if it's the original lol.
Brushes, HD regulators w/12awg are cheap, so are 12 gauge fuse holders...very cheap. It's usually all it needs. Brushes last about 120,000 miles, replace them at 100,000. Ford did right w/gen 10 alts.
The thing to do here is at least pull the brushes to visually see how worn they are, -if there's anything left at all. Chances are, that's what's wrong. If you purchase a new alt, don't give them your old one if it's the original lol.
Good info on the rebuild options, but the one in the truck definitely was not OEM. Quite honestly, I'll hit a point of diminishing returns as well if i spend much more of my time than this than just swapping it out. Plus, working on the truck outside in the winter SUCKS. She doesn't fit in the garage. Big mistake when I bought this house, but I also didn't have the truck then either.