OhioLariat

I've looked through the lift threads, and haven't seen this asked/answered.

I'm wondering what if... What it I could raise the rear end just one inch, and crank the torsion bars to match. The rear currently measures 22.5" The fronts are caytywampus (23 right / 22.5 left) so I have to adjust them anyway.

If I can raise the rear one inch, I can be at 23.5" all the way 'round which is better than stock, but still within the "safe zone" for the front.

4-Wheel Parts has a 1" block, but since stacking is a no-no, the only way I see this working would be to weld a 1" piece of bar stock 2-1/2" wide to the existing rear blocks (drilled accordingly, as I assume there are locator pins/holes, correct?)

Am I off base? Should I just even up the the front, and live with it?

Should I consider an add-a-leaf spring kit? (I've heard the lift can vary with this approach, though, and I don't have much wiggle room.)

I'll appreciate input on the matter. Thanks.

Andy

P.S. I'm looking to do this sooner rather than later, as I want to make the front-end height adjustments and get an alignment before I put on my new wheels and tires... and the waiting is KILLING ME!!

Jbrew

It's done all the time, I've done along with many many many many others in the T-bar crank thread. Your just confused and stuck for some reason.

You need a 3" lift block for the rear to gain 1" that's it...then level it out. It's easy peezy compared to your approach, which is borderline loopy.

Jbrew

And you'll need longer U-bolts, mine came in the same kit that they usually stock locally..if you want to take a ride.

OhioLariat

Well, I *did* inhale some paint fumes last night coating the step bars.

I'll check out the cranking thread(s) again. in the meantime, if you have a suggestion on manufacturer/type of block, I'd welcome the advice. When I called 4-Wheel Parts, they said the shortest aftermarket block they had was 5-1/2" or some such thing(?).

Thanks,

Andy

Jbrew

I can't remember B&D or something like that. BD 3" lift block for F150. You really don't have to do any searching.. but by all means. Just DON'T go 1.5" or I wouldn't recommend it, the leveling crank for that block will leave the front end to tight IMO and it will get old, the front end will age quickly. Even with a 1" its a rougher ride, but you still maintain a halfway decent one with good shocks.
That's another thing, make sure your shocks can handle more that you lift it. Otherwise you'll do what I did to your shocks, - use them up and go through bushings like crazy. Those were Bilsteins. Bilsteins one of the best unless you over extend them.

It's a good mod, improves the looks and the ride is good enough if you stick to 1".

What that's about 3" = 1". You replace the factory block which is 2" with a 3" block. You'll like everything about it, just make sure your Rancho's are rated for above factory height. Fox had ratings 0-1" , 0-2" and 3" above stock height. I haven't noticed if Rancho has specs like that on their 5000's. If not check their 9000's or Fox for that matter. Look at the total measurement of shocks rated for the lift. Then go back to your 5000 specs and compare total uncompressed measurements. Make sure it's all going to work in the front. Know what I'm saying ?

Just came to mind, user Drillrig has his bars maxed, - went that route, but he is crazy. Anyway ask him about it, he still comes around often.

Jbrew

Yea, just let all that soak in for bit. It'll make sense.

It's really easier than it seems lol...honest.

OhioLariat

Thanks Jbrew. 1" lift in the rear and leveling the front would be my max. In fact, after all this, I'm wondering if I should just stick with the stock height. I'm only running 285/70-17 KO2's, and don't really need the extra inch. (?)

BDS Suspension has some universal blocks. Their 3" have several options:





Then what did you do for bump stops, since you lose them when removing the stock block?

Shocks: I have the "2.5-inch lift" versions for the front, as the bars were already cranked a bit, and I knew I might go just a little more. The rears are listed as 0" or 4.5" only. Maybe I'll give them a call in the morning.

Appreciate all your help.

Andy

Jbrew

Great on the shocks! I run the factory 265's, always will and like the height looks and stance of 3/4 tons in this gen , 8 lug. They are far and in between now a days. That's why I went with it.

Bump stops ? You have bump stops where ? What are they going to bump into lol. There are some on the frame in back but have nothing to do with the springs. If your referring to the front, didn't change them.

OhioLariat

265's? Well, then... I'll give it a bit more thought!

There's a snubber on the frame and an ear off the factory lift block which keep the suspension from over-compressing.



Andy

Jbrew

That's right! With the block I got, it illuminates the bump stop stick out on the factory block. Which is bad IF you overload creating a more negative arch on the springs. Yea , THAT slipped my mind. I did this almost 10 years ago.

Dang, glad I've never overloaded. Hopefully BDS has an option for the bump stop now. Yea, I forgot all about that.