Stang0ne50

I have a question about these water pump bolts. They all came out fairly easy. Im wondering how these were originally installed. In the photo the stud on the right seems to have the nut welded into place . On the other studs the nut does not seem welded. All the studs came out with the nuts on them except one. Only 1 stud actually stayed in the engine(from top center the first stud to the left. At least one stud has the nut seized to it and needs to be replaced. I can not seem to find a water pump bolt kit for this truck anywhere.
Were these originally installed as studs then the nuts placed over them or are all these nuts supposed to be fixed in place? In the photo you can see the nuts in the center of the threads of the first 2 studs. Shouldnt they be at the end of the threads?

white89gt

I would say yes. If you've ever done the water pump on your Mustang, you'll notice that Ford pulled the same crap on that. If I don't set the new pump off to the side, and put each bolt in it's proper place as I am pulling them out, I will guaranteed mess it up. Power steering pump bolts are the same on the Stangs... a stud with a nut on it.

Stang0ne50

I have not mixed up the bolts but Im not sure if the nuts moved and if they should be at the end of the threads. On the stud on the right on the nut is fixed in place but on the first 2 studs the nut does not appear to be fixed even though they wont move. When I screw the bolts in I have about 5/8" from the bolt head to the timing cover. The water pump thickness is the same so my concern is if those nuts need to be further up those threads. I also still have one of the long bolts on the plate stuck between 2 nuts that will not move at all lol I may just have to cut it to get it off the plate but then im short one bolt.
I even called the dealership and they didnt have them. I may go to the hardware store but Im not sure if they will know or have the correct grades of the bolts and I dont know anything about that.

Stang0ne50

I found some info about the water pump bolts/studs. They are a metric grade 9.8 and the size is M8 x 1.25mm in various lengths.

On the stud stuck to the plate I ended up just grinding off the nut and going over the threads with a die and the stud is in good shape and I have replaced the nut.

Edit..nvm I got the nuts loose on all the studs so I will install studs finger tight then the nuts torqued down over them.
There is something very satisfying about using a die to save and clean up old threads haha when you feel that nut that was once seized glide through the threads like butter ahhh so sweet.

One of the bolts runs through a coolant passage. Other than the contact of the bolt head what stops this bolt from leaking? Do the threads act as a plug here? Do you guys put sealant on this bolt when installing or what?

Stang0ne50

Well unless someone has a better idea I will probably just put a little sealant around that one bolt hole.
Got lucky today at my local pick and pull and found some compressor bolts and ac bracket along with the bolts and the bracket all for 12 bucks! They had at least 10 f150s so I know where to go next time I need a hard to find bolt or something. It took me an hour to get that bracket out compared to the days it took me on my own truck and no bolts broke haha

Anyway finally pulled off one of my valve covers and it seems the paint is chipping off of it and its painted all in the groove where the new gasket goes so that kinda sucks. Im assuming these are aluminum covers so my next question is has anyone ever used stripper to remove the paint off the valve covers. I heard they make some aviation stripper thats supposed to work really well. I can already see paint coming off the other cover so Im gonna have to do both.
Is there any down side to removing the paint?

Oh also there is a bolt hole on the back of the lower intake between a ground and the lower bolt to the IMRC. Can anyone tell me what this hole is for? I dont remember taking anything out of it.

fordguy2100

Use this stuff on any bolts that go into a coolant passage

Stang0ne50

I was thinking something like this but I dont want the torque values to change, idk.

Do you guys use threadlocker on your lower manifold bolts? The chilton book says to oil lightly and torque to spec 89 inch pounds so thats all I did then retorque 24 hours later.
The torque spec seems really low too, 89 inch pounds is not alot at all.

Stang0ne50

Another quick question guys. In my haynes manual for the water pump bolts it says bolts 22 ft/lbs and nuts only 5.5 ft/lbs. This is a huge difference. I went along with it but I wanna make sure this is correct.
What do you guys think about this? Any reason for it?

fordguy2100

Welp that's what I used restoring my Highboy at the recommendation of a lot of knowledgeable guys on the dentside forum. I've had zero issues and I doubt it would affect your torque values that much to have any issues

BareBonesXL

I'm not sure which bolts and nuts you're looking at but my official $6.95 eBay workshop manual on CD for the 2000 year says 15 lb-ft for the "power steering pump bracket-to-water pump nuts". It's the only water pump reference I can find. Maybe they went all nuts in 2000.