I ended up going to the dealer and picked up the PCV hose and the o-ring nipple thingabobber that the metal hose connects to. Two o-rings were on it and it $10ish at the dealer (MSRP was $18ish). Figured it was a good deal instead of paying games with various o-rings trying to make it work to save a few bucks. But of course, I didn't get the hose off so the whole thing is moot. Maybe when I come back to it on Wednesday, I will take the intake back off and try again. It sure was a pain. Heck even the hose back there, I was fighting to squeeze the clamp without success. Have to see what other pliers I have to battle with.

If I do try again, I won't put the fuel injectors on before the coils. What a disaster that is. Can't access the coil bolts with the fuel rail, it seems.

The more I think about it, I need to take it back off and just do it right instead of rushing.

Ok back to the metal tube. On the back of the block, there are multiple nuts holding the hose. The little nuts seem to hold on the bracket and a grounding strap (that connects to the firewall). It seems like the entire bolt is half 13mm and half the smaller size as it screws into the block. If I look at the hose correctly, the one further to the side of the truck will not have to be removed completely due to the opening on the bottom of the hose assembly. That's the one I couldn't budge and it felt like my wrench was rounding off the edges. What an annoying design!

 

I removed the post about hosing as it was not relevant and was creating confusion***

The metal tube in discussion at this time is the Motorcraft KT-3.

 

Although somewhat confusing, I think I can make out what your talking about...most of the time lol. I had re-read it quite a few times. So your calling the heater core metal tube (hard line) a hose correct ? Pretty sure that's what your doing. I haven't replied to quite a few of your posts because I think your talking PCV....I notice others were confused replying to your posts as well. I gave up initially, well sort of, too much work deciphering your posts lol. Anyway, so your not screwing with the hardline at this point, because you can't remove it ? Personally, I would tackle that now vs later, it will fail the way it is eventually. Even Ford found this engineering flaw early on. They did something about but they did not change the initial design for gen 10's or someone just didn't get the memo lol. Those who did get the memo (so to speak) were the engine re-builders. Be it at Ford Motor or Contracted by Ford engine re-builders. I'm not sure why production at the plant didn't incorporate the change, it was a simple change nothing major. Must of gotten lost in the shuffle at some point. I use to follow this stuff closely...Engineering. It was my profession..re-engineering in the field what did not work on paper or was prone to failure.
So this is indeed a failure. It was corrected at Ford BUT, not everyone or all departments adapted to it. Further production didn't get the update so the problem continued for the next 4 or 5 years until gen 11's went into production. A big hick-up you could say. So, I preformed and documented the procedure myself and shared it with whomever that needed it. Right now where your at, your doing a lot of work for a first timer. The work is figuring all it out, doing things properly the first time. Chances are you won't, since this isn't your profession. But you seem very willing to learn and have the proper open mindedness to do so.

BTW- The nuts on the back of the head that secures that hard line are double nutted. The space back there is confined. It takes two wrenches to get the top nut loose. If you don't realize that, (because you can't see it) then it's going to take you awhile until you figure that out. Knowing that from the start, you'll have it removed in no time vs pulling your hair out and screwing things up lol.

Hope that helps a little.

There's things your just not aware of with this job. Not unusual, it's just par for the course learning on your own. If you begin again, let me know, I'll take you through the job entirely. There's a ton of first time failures here. Some not right off, - a few weeks or months perhaps...maybe a year. Covering all aspects of a manifold gasket R&R on a modular isn't really a novice job. IF you have someone with experience bring you through it, it's a fairly easy one.

 

Jbrew I greatly appreciate your insight and I apologize for failing to state the correct nomenclature. I was indeed talking about the metal heater line (Motorcraft KT-3) underneath the intake in terms of "giving up". I was trying to rush today, but once I realized that I wasn't finishing today, I put the brakes on and stopped getting frustrated. Better to come back fresh another day.

When I get back to it, I will remove the new intake and try to tackle the metal tube again. I bought a new metal connector from Ford with the new o-rings.

Pic from another site: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1241440235

I also purchased the 5/8 hosing and the clamps in preparation for doing your mod. From what I seem to read now, if I do the mod I do not replace the o-rings. And i should cut off the flared part of the hose...

I'm trying to find photos of those nuts on the back, but it seems like they are not photographed much. It really is a tight space back there. Maybe I'll get a photo next time to show the next knucklehead like me who is tackling this. lol

Two wrenches might be a help considering I was only using one at a time. I was able to get the smaller 10mm nuts off that were holding the bracket and a grounding strap. And I was successful in removing one of the bolts with the 13mm (I believe, forgetting already)

It seems even the youtube videos regarding the fix seem to be hacks and efforts to just avoid doing the intake removal to fix the tube.

Thanks again for staying patient with my newbieness. I know you are a veteran at this stuff as I am reading your old posts from 2008 about this stuff! I'm just trying to learn as I go and I'm very fortunate to have you and the others guiding me!

 

Jsut as an update. I went back it today. Unfortunately, I had received notice that I would be going out of town again for a while so I really didn't want to tear it back apart. So I ended up just finishing up and not attacking the heating tube. I know I will regret it later, but time ran out on me. At least I'll know how to get to it next time. LOL

So everything was put back together. With a fire extinguisher and box of tissues for my tears nearby, I reconnected the battery, held my breath, and attempted to start it. Sure enough it fired up. I waited for the dashboard to light up with every warning light, but to my surprise, none came on. It ran around 1000 rpm for a while and then dropped down to the 700s at idle. I took it for a test drive and it seemed happy. Ran into town, only about 25 miles round trip, and so far so good.

Big thanks to Jbrew and everyone else that helped along the way. I'll give it a little time before I call it a success, but so far, it isn't looking too bad!

 

@jbrew. What is the jbrew mod for the hard metal line on back of water pump. I guess all the talk on here and mine starting leaking this weekend.☹

 

Yea, it's just deleting the o-rings completely since they failed often in these trucks. The problem with that is that it's a large job to replace them...the intake must come off. Therefore you have to drain down the coolant, disassemble the top of the engine down to the heads and go through the time consuming process or prepping and putting it back together again after replacing the o-rings.

Ford did put some time into this problem and came up with a fix but went so far with it. So this isn't really my mod, I followed in the footsteps of their solve. This occurred around 2005 while I was reading documentation from Ford fixing this issue with their reman engines. Then I seen a published picture curtusy of Ford Motor in a chilton/haynes manual.

Now, I don't know how Chilton/Haynes managed to get this picture, but it's the only place I've seen one. I haven't looked at a Chilton/Hayenes manual in over a decade so this pic may just be in the older publications. When I was a kid, I had a stack of those manuals...next to my dirty books. I recall Miss November in the fuel pump section.

Anyway, that's the history. The mod is simply cutting the bell off of the heater core hard line. The bell is what slips over the o-rings. The problem with the design is the bell corrodes inside eventually compromising the o-ring seal. There's no practical way to prevent this from happening. I'm all about preventive maintenance, but there has to be some practicability to it lol. Replace the bell with a section of heater hose. This was awhile ago, I believe it's a 5/8 piece....it may be 3/4". Use the thinnest heater hose you can, one that goes on tight. I'll explain in the next step.

Next step is clamping. This hose should be crimped in place. It's the correct way since there isn't a lot of room in there once everything is back together. Not everyone has that crimper, I didn't back then so I used worm clamps. You can use worm clamps be these have to be installed only one way/one position for them not to come in contact with lower intake upon assembly. That's about it, nothing special.

BTW, - I did this back in 05/06 and it hasn't leaked in there yet..knock on wood. I'm not one to commit to write-ups. However I did document some of this and had taken a few pics during the install. I believe some are posted in this thread. If not, I should have in my gallery if needed. I can post or direct you to them if you want.

 

Damn jbrew, I will have to read again. My mind starting wandering on Miss November and fuel pump section. I would love pics of Miss November.
Oh, got it. Thanks brew

 

Man all this information is priceless as I am now doing these jobs I must say that you fellas on here have probably saved my *** from a lot of work in trouble, I know it's a little late or far off from when you guys said it but let me rethank all of you from the depths of my heart I love my Ford I have gotten it from my grandfather who bought it off the lot I still have the paperwork that goes in the window the schedules of every little maintenance done and I will not buy a new truck maybe a new motor for this one hahaha 2003 F150 5.4 2 valve XLT. Just got her to turn over the 100000

 

100K is just getting broke in good. Stay on top of the fluids especially the coolant and it will probably go much farther.

When I did my intake I replaced the heater pipe and the o-rings. . With OEM motorcraft orings. . I figured if it lasted fine 17 years the first time it all out last the truck, just like the new manifold.

I'm not sure what problems people have with their heater pipes leaking at water pump but I expect they used aftermarket o-rings and they're not the right size, or their cooling systems were neglected enough that the heater pipe got a little corroded or something and the o-ring didn't seal well. Because the right one simply don't leak. Just like the right fittings for the heater core push on connectors don't leak .... But aftermarket have a horrible reputation

If you've ever tried to measure an o-ring with a pair of calipers to .001...it ain't easy. My guess is some companies who attempt to reverse engineer selections for things like o-rings just plain get it wrong. Stick with OEM and it'll work as good as the first time.

I bought aftermarket injector o-rings when I replaced my manifold.... and they did not fit as tight as my used o-rings so I didn't put them in.....