When Ive done the mod I also replaced the o rings. Cheap and it cant hurt.

 

Did you use the motorcraft ones or the aftermarket brand o-rings?

 

I just used some one out of store of O-rings I have. Think a harbor freight box of assorted orings..

 

Very good to hear.

Regarding the water pump. The new one I bought doesn't seem to spin freely well. Meaning, I can turn it by hand, but it won't keep spinning. Seems like a lot of effort just to spin it. Normal?

It is a motorcraft but I bought it off Amazon.

 

Fel-Pro Part # 413 for the O-Ring's.

Water Pump O-Ring: Water Pump Bypass Pipe; .688 Inch I.D. X .875 Inch O.D.

As far as the pump not spinning freely, the bearing is under pressure IIRC. A new water pump should be tight and not easy to spin.

 

Thanks all. I started working on it today again. Water pump went in well without too many headaches. The rental fan clutch removal tool and the fan holder tool worked well.

Currently working on the metal tube under the intake. I am definitely fighting with the nuts on the back of the engine to get that tube disconnected. I have a small one off, but seems there is a 13mm? nut back there that won't budge. I'm scared to strip it!

I also noticed the knock sensor wiring with a bit chewed up, figure I'll replace that while I'm there. Any brands to avoid? Thanks


Update: I was able to get that 13mm nut loose and then the rain started, so the progress comes to a stop.

 

Rain stopped and I got back to it. I'm embarrassed to say that I gave on getting that heater line removed. I'm sure I will regret it later, but this project is dragging along. LOL Between the bloody knuckles and such trying to get that hose off, plus the weather, I was ready to move on.

Was able to get the fuel injectors swapped over and mounted to the dorman intake. Dorman intake mounted and torqued per the instructions.Then I tried to install the coil packs and all went on ok except a couple. Of course I dropped one of the screws for the coils somewhwere and the sun was setting. Will have to find that later or find a compatible screw. I really don't like the self tapping into the plastic design. Oh well.

To be continued in a few days...

 

Yes, don't use the O-rings AND A clamp, that could and probably will have adverse effects (specially around the clamping area lol). That's only if you do the mod procedure.

If you opt to replace the rings, you have to get those right for that part. To get the correct o-ring type and sizes (2 rings two sizes) because they are different sizes, I would trust a dealer first, and so called OEM replacement provider second. Chances are in this case, you'll get chumped getting them elsewhere....they get it wrong, and lighten the price type deal. Been there done that and removing the manifold AGAIN for a do over will **** you off....trust me lol.

 

Yes those back bolts are not fun, but you are doing yourself a big favor replacing that tube and doing the Jbrew mod at the same time.

On my 97 the tube got a pin hole leak right above the knock sensor. A few days ago my factory water pump started weeping. Not bad, lasted 330K miles.

Ordering a MotorCraft tonight, I didn't like what the local parts stores had to offer.

 

Exactly I had to pull my intake multiple times over that piece of $#!7 metal heater line.