Headlights won't turn off
#11
The truck is a one owner company truck for a huge apartment complex, so no mods, no nothing.
Here's the pic again.
No separate roller for auto lights.
The switch works fine, switched multiple times when the truck isn't running, everything works. When the truck is started, THEN everything goes crazy, & I have to pull the battery cable to stop it.
Here's the pic again.
No separate roller for auto lights.
The switch works fine, switched multiple times when the truck isn't running, everything works. When the truck is started, THEN everything goes crazy, & I have to pull the battery cable to stop it.
#12
Senior Member
Originally Posted by OhioLariat
White: What "clock?"
SMitch: How about a pic of *your* switch? Also, the lights come on with the ignition and stay on after ignition is off even during the day?
I'm leaning toward the problem being a bad switch, or a previous owner's hack wiring job. (Have you pulled the switch form the dash to check the connector and wiring yet?)
Note: My '99 had auto lamps, and a separate "roller" adjustment for the delay between ignition off and lights out. The '03 has no adjustment. I think the factory timer is 30 seconds.
SMitch: How about a pic of *your* switch? Also, the lights come on with the ignition and stay on after ignition is off even during the day?
I'm leaning toward the problem being a bad switch, or a previous owner's hack wiring job. (Have you pulled the switch form the dash to check the connector and wiring yet?)
Note: My '99 had auto lamps, and a separate "roller" adjustment for the delay between ignition off and lights out. The '03 has no adjustment. I think the factory timer is 30 seconds.
Also yeah OP your pic doesn't show the full choices from the selector on the left. Do you have a lightbulb with an A in it. Like in whites picture on the top left of the left selector ****.
Or just go take a head on pic of your switch but from the grainy side view it doesn't look like you have the auto selector
#14
Senior Member
Have you pulled the switch and/or traced the wiring. Could be crappy PO work like mentioned above or could be a short somewhere. To my knowledge there's not much to the circuitry there, it's gotta be a bad wire getting juice when it's not supposed to.
Other potential problem and forgive me if this was mentioned, can't remember while typing this... is your battery good? Like have you put a tester on it? Trucks will do strange things with a low battery... I mean strange things.
Other potential problem and forgive me if this was mentioned, can't remember while typing this... is your battery good? Like have you put a tester on it? Trucks will do strange things with a low battery... I mean strange things.
#15
No, I haven't traced the switch wiring yet.
Since the switch works perfectly when engine is off & when the ignition switch is on, I suspected the problem to be somewhere else.
When a switch is broken or burned, it's usually unpredictable.
My first thoughts was an open ground loop between the DRL's or autolights, or even water in the fusebox, but there's no DRL module in the dash, & I can't find any evidence of autolights. The fuse box is dry, with no deposits in/on it. Under the hood it's very clean with no oxidation.
This is why I suspect a module, not to mention the light modules go bad often in the Ford trucks & crown vics.
Since the switch works perfectly when engine is off & when the ignition switch is on, I suspected the problem to be somewhere else.
When a switch is broken or burned, it's usually unpredictable.
My first thoughts was an open ground loop between the DRL's or autolights, or even water in the fusebox, but there's no DRL module in the dash, & I can't find any evidence of autolights. The fuse box is dry, with no deposits in/on it. Under the hood it's very clean with no oxidation.
This is why I suspect a module, not to mention the light modules go bad often in the Ford trucks & crown vics.