Update on this issue: A little extra research turned up a very useful tidbit of information... The fuel pump relay does not stay on unless the engine is running. I checked the voltage at the inertia switch like I had been doing to find that when the key is turned to the on position, the voltage does actually jump to 12V for a second, then drops out. It isn't supposed to hold voltage to run until the engine is running. This is normal operation according to the information that I found. One thing that I'm really good at is hearing hoof beats and thinking it's a zebra rather than a horse. Occam's razor, which I frequently ignore for some reason, applies here: The simplest explanation tends to be the right one. The electrical circuit in my truck is fine and my initial diagnosis of a bad fuel pump seems to be the right one. Of course I can't prove this until I can get to the pump and test it but if I make it that far, I'm replacing the thing on the principle of 220,000 miles on the truck. I thank you all for your help and guidance. I learned a good bit from this experience but the most important lesson that I learned is that there is a community of Ford truck owners that are willing to help a fellow brother in the human race to solve problems. You guys rock and again, thank you all for all of the input, information, tips, tricks, and knowledge. I'll post the final results when I get there but without a proper garage and winter in NE Ohio, it's just gonna have to wait...

 

Hi. You're correct about the fuel pump running for only a second with key on engine off. If your no start is intermittent and you suspect the fuel pump relay, just swap it out for the blower motor relay. If your truck starts running fine and your blower doesn't work, then there ya go. Based on the 100's of no-starts that I've diagnosed on 10th gen f150's, the fuel pump relay rarely fails. I can't remember that last time I actually fixed a fuel pump issue on one with the relay. But swapping out relays is fast and free.
The 2 main causes for a no-start (turns over normally but won't start) are eec power relays and fuel pumps. EEC power relays can be diagnosed by observing the check engine light and/or digital odometer with the key on and engine off. Does the digital odo display dashes? Does the CEL stay off with the key on/engine off? Those are the telltale signs. You could do further electrical diagnosis or you could just get under the hood and tap the relay or swap it out with the blower motor relay and see if the condition persists. When the eec power relay fails, no voltage will make it to the fuel pump.
My standard for selling a customer a fuel pump was checking for voltage at the inertia switch. Got voltage but zero fuel pressure? Go ahead and buy the pump.

 

Ray, that is good information. One question: When an EEC relays goes out, does it usually start intermittently like the fuel pump might or does it just die one day?

 

The only way that I've seen them fail is by not "turning on". So only when you attempt to start. They can be intermittent or not. Sometimes if one was towed in but it always started for me, i would sell them an eec power relay if not to fix it, rule out a frequent cause of no starts.
Also, these relays are used for several things in the truck. The eec power relay is the only one that fails regularly. It's odd.

 

I think you and I may share the same problem but I don't think its my fuel pump and it may not be yours either. I just bought mine a couple of weeks ago and the previous owner was telling me it was hard to start first thing in the mornings. My first thought was a sensor was probably bad because I had the same problem on another vehicle. My symptoms are that on cold mornings I have a no start condition.If the temps are warmer in the afternoon it will start. If it is a fuel pump problem, then a short couple of sprays of starting fluid should make it fire up for a couple of seconds, but it wont make it fire off when the weather is cold such as temps in the 40s or lower. When it warms up later in the afternoon and temps are closer to the 60s, It will crank and run easily. To make a long story short, I'm leaning toward a defective cylinder head temp sensor. because I understand that it feeds info to the pcm which in turn controls fuel and spark (I think). I'm not saying that is what your problem is though but it's something to think about. I just know that starting fluid will not start my truck (It should if the fuel pump is defective) when it is pretty cold outside but my problem seems to go away and it starts fine when the temps are higher in the afternoon.
P.S. I just realized you live in the rust belt and that you have a 2001 model. Have you considered the fuel pump driver module being defective? I think it should be located on the cross member just in front of where the spare tire mounts. Corrosion and moisture will destroy it and it's a common problem. Look for more info about it on You tube.

 

@ F150+200,000 Did replacing the fuel pump fix your issue?

 

Check the mega fuses✅✌️

 

Posting what year and what engine your truck has will sure help
They changed the system schematics over the years and the relays etc.
I think you have a failing fuel pump but would also heck for fuel tank contamination

 

I see nowhere on here where you checked the codes
Might be as simple as a bad wiring connection somewhere
Check the fuel pressure, check the codes

 

This thread was from a couple of years ago and was necro'd by a noobie.

Let it go back to sleep.