Good rotors and pads on a budget
#11
Why don't you have your local shop just turn the rotors for you. My local napa auto turns the rotors for $30 a set and the pads are like 40 for the mid grade ones. As long as you arnt past the manufactures minimum thickness I think this would be the best way to go.
#12
Tackle, I would like to add one word to your drilled and slotted comment- cheap. Cheap drilled and/or slotted rotors may crack easier. Especially drilled. A decent set of slotted should be fine. I had a vibration problem on my v6 contour, I kept cutting and replacing rotors until I stuck on a modestly priced set of drilled and slotted with brake pads from eBay. There are bad companies out there though.
For a stock application, I'm not sure I would invest the money in slotted rotors. A good set of standard rotors and pads will last a long time. Upgrading your lines to SS, or even replacement rubber lines will also give you added benefit.
#13
It's a good idea but rotors warp because of heat. This can change the strength of them. Getting them cut may get them flat, but would have a higher chance of warping again over a new set of the same brand.
#14
Street Queen in the Mud
Thread Starter
I generally steer away from returning rotors, I've never had them last very long when I did. Both front calipers were replaced last fall. I actually have replacement rubber lines too, I just havent had a chance to replace them yet.
I'm not set on slotted or drilled rotors, it was just a thought. So the general consensus is just get the basic ones off or rock auto?
I'm not set on slotted or drilled rotors, it was just a thought. So the general consensus is just get the basic ones off or rock auto?
#15
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Join Date: May 2007
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I generally steer away from returning rotors, I've never had them last very long when I did. Both front calipers were replaced last fall. I actually have replacement rubber lines too, I just havent had a chance to replace them yet.
I'm not set on slotted or drilled rotors, it was just a thought. So the general consensus is just get the basic ones off or rock auto?
I'm not set on slotted or drilled rotors, it was just a thought. So the general consensus is just get the basic ones off or rock auto?
the actual purpose of a slotted rotor is to cut into the pad and prevent hi temp glazing. its not exactly something i want on a daily driven vehicle.
Go with OEM semi-metallic pads and quality rotors and call it a day.
#16
Mark
iTrader: (1)
the slots help disperse heat during pad contact...and yes ... help prevent hi temp glazing of the pads...why would you not want this on your 1/2 ton truck ??
#18
Drilling your rotor does nothing useful usually but make them weaker. Ever see drilled rotors in nascar?
Slotted rotors are always the only option for performance but you have to understand what the Slots are doing to make the choice if they are for you.
The slots are in essence cleaning the pads as the rotor rotates. This is so the brake particulates are not interfering with the need for rotor to pad contact. The dust can create interference with the Rotor/Pad contact but it can also cause that glaze on the both the rotor and the pad. Not only can that cause noise but (More importantly) it can cause the system to not work as well. It turns it into a slicker surface decreasing your breaks effectiveness. (Not to mention break dust can catch fire in extreme applications.)
If you're going to ever go to a slotted rotor, I'd suggest a quality brand. Just buying a cheap brand that cut groves & called it slotted, is trouble waiting to happen.
If you Tow a lot and you tow max. loads, a nice high end slotted rotor would be for you. (..Or if you're a race truck.) If you're the average Joe, you could go either way. Decide what your budget is willing to afford.
I have seen racers cut their own grooves with great effectiveness but they were using $500 blanks. Not something cost effective anyone here in this thread would want to do. I'd never do it. I'm not that talented.
One more thing. As the slots are cleaning your pads, that ion charged CORROSIVE dust has to go somewhere. ...it loves static and it loves to eat your wheels, paint & chrome. If you're meticulous about a clear truck with good waxes you may have less to worry about.
..Sorry for the long post. I know I talk too much. I just had my coffee.
Slotted rotors are always the only option for performance but you have to understand what the Slots are doing to make the choice if they are for you.
The slots are in essence cleaning the pads as the rotor rotates. This is so the brake particulates are not interfering with the need for rotor to pad contact. The dust can create interference with the Rotor/Pad contact but it can also cause that glaze on the both the rotor and the pad. Not only can that cause noise but (More importantly) it can cause the system to not work as well. It turns it into a slicker surface decreasing your breaks effectiveness. (Not to mention break dust can catch fire in extreme applications.)
If you're going to ever go to a slotted rotor, I'd suggest a quality brand. Just buying a cheap brand that cut groves & called it slotted, is trouble waiting to happen.
If you Tow a lot and you tow max. loads, a nice high end slotted rotor would be for you. (..Or if you're a race truck.) If you're the average Joe, you could go either way. Decide what your budget is willing to afford.
I have seen racers cut their own grooves with great effectiveness but they were using $500 blanks. Not something cost effective anyone here in this thread would want to do. I'd never do it. I'm not that talented.
One more thing. As the slots are cleaning your pads, that ion charged CORROSIVE dust has to go somewhere. ...it loves static and it loves to eat your wheels, paint & chrome. If you're meticulous about a clear truck with good waxes you may have less to worry about.
..Sorry for the long post. I know I talk too much. I just had my coffee.
Last edited by Wolvee; 05-22-2013 at 09:56 AM.
#19
Ford Owner
I purchased these for my truck and have been very happy with them. After I put them on my 98 4x4 I noticed a big difference in the stopping performance of the truck. They also look really good with my aluminum wheels. Out on Ebay you can find others for less money (less than $100) that will probably work well for you also.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FRONT-Performance-Callahan-Drilled-Slotted-SPORT-Brake-Rotors-Ceramic-Pads-4WD-/300660465749?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A2006%7CMake%3AFord%7CModel%3AF-150&hash=item4600c2a055&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FRONT-Performance-Callahan-Drilled-Slotted-SPORT-Brake-Rotors-Ceramic-Pads-4WD-/300660465749?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A2006%7CMake%3AFord%7CModel%3AF-150&hash=item4600c2a055&vxp=mtr
#20
Street Queen in the Mud
Thread Starter
Thanks to everyone for the suggestions, surprisingly the cheapest place to get them was advance auto parts, I got two vented rotors and semi-metallic pads for $64 after tax, and a coupon. Got them all installed and it made a huge difference, stops a lot better and the pulsing has gone away.