Misionfod

Hi All,
Backstory:
My girlfriend was looking out for a truck and got one for a really good deal she thought (maybe?) and surprised me with it because my car died a few weeks before that and she knew I was looking for a lower cost truck. It is a 1998 with 5.4 2 valve engine at ~ 190000. Most things seem good and the seller told her it just needed plugs and coils and he has them in the back of the truck. He also said he read codes and was the back 2 with issues. 4 + 8 I believe.

I changed all the plugs with the new MC plugs first he provided. I changed all the COPs with the Edelbrock coils he gave (Catch here is the coils have been definitely used but did not look bad on the exterior). When I was changing them out I disconnected the battery.

The truck when first started until maybe 2-3 minutes when engine is warm runs decent even if I take off right away and drive not just idle. I will get a slight mis when idle but barely can feel it as well. After this in IDLE whenever I tap the gas hard it will pop and mis, but not when lightly giving throttle until RPMS are high. When driving it seems to get worse as it gets warmer and has a terrible time in the 1500-3000 range I would say especially at 0-30 mph, like pulling onto a highway. When I do get it to 55-65 and use cruise it is bad (jerking, bucking) but not as bad as the take off. A little better when not using overdrive. When taking off it just stutters really bad and then i let off and gas again or nail the gas hard to come out of this.

I tested out the dpfe sensor (ODB2) and voltages never moved from 2.2-2.7v , sucked on the EGR hose and could not get past about 2.9 still. I got a new sensor and that
tested in range at 0.9v idle but would not increase past about 2.9. From reading the EGR should hit like 4+ at full open. So I put a hose from both ports on sensor and blocked the EGR flow to the intake with some aluminum. I now get 0.9 - 1 all the time and I do not believe it thinks or tries to open the EGR valve. It might run a little better but not enough to really tell. It is still really bad. The EGR tube DPFE nipple (front) also snapped off because rusty and I just touched it lol. So I was concerned on the EGR causing issues and that is why I did what I did to rule that out before I decide on delete or fix.

No codes are triggered except P1000 not ready diagnostics. Mode 6 does not show any

Before I change out all the COPs with new ones I have a couple questions.

1. The EGR half *** delete with hole in EGR tube I have going on: will this still cause that kind of issue, or should that really not be much of a factor?
2. Mode 6 is not showing my misfire data:

Oxygen Sensor Voltage Amplitude, Bank 1, Sensor 1 1 11 0.73 V >= 0.50 V
Oxygen Sensor Voltage Amplitude, Bank 2, Sensor 1 1 21 0.75 V >= 0.50 V
Oxygen Sensor Switchpoint, Upstream 3 1 0.45 V >= 0.00 V
Oxygen Sensor Switchpoint, Downstream 3 2 0.50 V >= 0.00 V
Rear to front switch ratio, Bank 2 10 21 0.70 :1 <= 0.75 :1
Rear to front switch ratio, Bank 1 10 11 0.70 :1 <= 0.75 :1
Unknown test 21 0 32768.00 >= 60160.00
Unknown test 21 0 32768.00 <= 61952.00
Unknown test 22 0 32768.00 <= 57344.00
Unknown test 25 0 32768.00 >= 768.00
Unknown test 41 11 0.00 >= 64640.00
Unknown test 41 12 0.00 <= 896.00
EGR delta pressure for stuck open test 45 20 971.76 mV <= 1479.61 mV
Unknown test 4A 30 0.00 >= 768.00
EVR dutycycle for flow test 4B 30 87.50 % <= 79.95 %
Total Engine Misfire Rate & Type B Threshold 50 0 0.00 % <= 3.93 %

The realtime monitor will show the Misfire monitor trigger on after some time and I will get total misfire counts but no other data that looks bad.

So question do I need to complete all the tests to clear p1000 and then get the misfire $53 data ?


Any advise would be great! if nothing else I will start changing the coils out. It was not very fun the first time lol