For all of you that are afraid to tackle the exhaust leak problem yourself, I have a tip for you. I know it has been stated before, but let me reiterate the fact. SPRAY THOSE STUDS DOWN WITH PB BLASTER!!! I was nervous to do this myself, but when I shop quoted me $350 before
parts, I decided it was a no brainer to at least try myself. The worst that could happen - I break a stud and they have to do it anyways...the leak couldn't have gotten any worse! The truck was already throwing a lean code and o2 sensor code since the leak had gotten so bad.
I sprayed the studs very generously with PB Blaster, and let it do some soaking. Then I drove the truck again, and sprayed them down again. While still fairly warm, I started seeing how many studs would break. To my surprise, I was able to loosen each and every one! So that morning, it was off to the parts store and stealership to get a new manifold, studs/nuts, and EGR line (you will most likely need a new one if you are doing your driver's side). Then I brought it up to the shop I work at, put it on the lift (makes life a lot easier!), and went to work. Only about 3 hours later, my truck doesn't leak a single bit, and now I can enjoy the dual exhaust sound again instead of an annoying tick! It sounded like a tractor at startup. The only stud that didn't come out was the bottom back one, so I just put a new nut on it and called it good...figured if it wasn't too corroded that the nut was able to come off, than it wasn't too corroded to just stay in there.
After all of the parts, I was in it for under $300. I was so happy that my truck cooperated with me, that she's getting some new Cooper ST's put on tonight
But again guys, don't be afraid to try this yourself and save a few bucks. If I had leaks on both sides, I probably would have gone with some shorty headers, but this leak needed fixing asap, so an OEM manifold went back in place.