Exhaust manifold leak question
#1
Exhaust manifold leak question
My son has a 2001 with the 5.4, has a decent leak on the passenger side. We have a quote from a local muffler shop who states they have done many of the repairs like this for $500. It would be a new manifold for this price
Does this seem like a reasonable price, searching the net it does not look like much fun to try and replace the gasket if the bolts break off
Does this seem like a reasonable price, searching the net it does not look like much fun to try and replace the gasket if the bolts break off
#4
Senior Member
Prices seem about right, - 200 per side though is a great deal. That must of been pending on the job going easy lol. If your not equipped for worst case scenario you may lose a little hair.
A welder on hand (usually makes it quick as they bust close to or above head surface). The nut weld or washer then nut weld procedure.
Solid Cobalt left hand M42's and good self centering hardened punch. Makes it quick IF you can get to the one your after. Since they usually bust in the rear, it's cake. Busted studs heat up and spin right out on the bit quickly.
A little heat right from get go works wounder since dissimilar corrosion between steel and aluminum break down with little heat.
Other than that, - replace your trans mount at about 100,000 miles and the rear manifold studs won't fatigue, snap/bust in the first place. It's the trans mount in the gen 10's that cause this issue. The exhaust Y is tied to a plate just above the mount. When the mount eventually fails (no bushing material left) the trans sinks to metal on metal. This pulls the Y downward aprox a 1/2" stressing the rear exhaust studs. Since it's now metal on metal with no dampening, the studs also suffer drivetrain vibration transfer. Doesn't take long from that point.
Potatoe, - shopping around is the best you can do. I'm not surprised at 500 but you may find a shop that's a little cheaper. Watch how they price the job. They may offer a low price at first with add-ons later if they have trouble. Look for one solid quote without any pending bs. Some shops use suck you in pricing tactics only to gift you a larger bill when all said and done.
A welder on hand (usually makes it quick as they bust close to or above head surface). The nut weld or washer then nut weld procedure.
Solid Cobalt left hand M42's and good self centering hardened punch. Makes it quick IF you can get to the one your after. Since they usually bust in the rear, it's cake. Busted studs heat up and spin right out on the bit quickly.
A little heat right from get go works wounder since dissimilar corrosion between steel and aluminum break down with little heat.
Other than that, - replace your trans mount at about 100,000 miles and the rear manifold studs won't fatigue, snap/bust in the first place. It's the trans mount in the gen 10's that cause this issue. The exhaust Y is tied to a plate just above the mount. When the mount eventually fails (no bushing material left) the trans sinks to metal on metal. This pulls the Y downward aprox a 1/2" stressing the rear exhaust studs. Since it's now metal on metal with no dampening, the studs also suffer drivetrain vibration transfer. Doesn't take long from that point.
Potatoe, - shopping around is the best you can do. I'm not surprised at 500 but you may find a shop that's a little cheaper. Watch how they price the job. They may offer a low price at first with add-ons later if they have trouble. Look for one solid quote without any pending bs. Some shops use suck you in pricing tactics only to gift you a larger bill when all said and done.
Last edited by Jbrew; 10-22-2016 at 11:31 PM.
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rsylvstr (10-23-2016)
#5
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
Soak them every 30 minutes with PB blaster for about 2-3 hours. Let it sit overnight, repeat, and you probably wont have any break.
I was stubborn and broke 4 of mine not using any lubricant. Some broke off in the head about 1/4" so I filled it with some flux core and welded a nut on the stud and it can out easy. Get a can of mapp gas if you have problems, just dont hit the pb blaster with it !!
If you don't have time, 500 isnt bad. Felpro gaskets are less than 20 bucks, so its more of a 95% labor job.
I was stubborn and broke 4 of mine not using any lubricant. Some broke off in the head about 1/4" so I filled it with some flux core and welded a nut on the stud and it can out easy. Get a can of mapp gas if you have problems, just dont hit the pb blaster with it !!
If you don't have time, 500 isnt bad. Felpro gaskets are less than 20 bucks, so its more of a 95% labor job.
#7
Thanks guys, for replies
Jbrew I am also interested in the tranny mount you are referring to. Do not want to spend 500 and do this again. Is there a link to the tranny mount issue
Jbrew I am also interested in the tranny mount you are referring to. Do not want to spend 500 and do this again. Is there a link to the tranny mount issue
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rsylvstr (10-23-2016)
#9
Senior Member
You could always just make your own manifolds..... it's pretty easy.
All kidding aside, as previously mentioned, you need to chage the trans mount. You don't say if it's 4WD that I can see... but the trans mount for the 4R70W is Anchor 2870 if it's a 2WD, and Anchor 2871 if it's a 4WD.
All kidding aside, as previously mentioned, you need to chage the trans mount. You don't say if it's 4WD that I can see... but the trans mount for the 4R70W is Anchor 2870 if it's a 2WD, and Anchor 2871 if it's a 4WD.
#10
4WD - we just looked and found the mount, looks to be a rubber grommet system. His manifold it pretty rusty, I do not see nay broken bolts but probably hard to tell. Any links or videos on the tranny mount change, it would make sense to try that first prior to spending $500 on the manifold