People have had problems with the cheaper bluetooth devices. Worthwhile to spend an extra 15 and get a better one. Cancel that $10 while you can. I'll see if I can find a recent thread about the $10 ELM. It didn't work with their truck. Protocols were wrong.

Found it - https://www.f150forum.com/f6/help-to...2001-a-499168/

 

...Glad I checked back here before bed.

 

I'll give it a try tomorrow.

but I gotta ask ya...
If the two cylinders that aren't getting EGR flow are doing great, why wouldn't all six of them do great without any EGR flow?
And, you say EGR gases can lower the temperatures in the combustion chambers by 300 degrees. Is there a possibility of running hot if I unplug that hose?

 

I know your listening roraysor but I need to get a correction to 'you' RAY because your thinking is backwards.
EGR is not designed into the system to make POWER.
Blocking it will not result is more power at anytime.
It only comes into play over 45 mph at >very lite throttle opening < , NOT under large power opening.
Under large power requests, the computer >>closes it so it has no effect.
Therefore defeating it has no power advantage.
In this V6 the EGR ports are in the intake manifold per cylinder runner.
If some ports are blocked, the motor may not be smooth at lite throttle when the EGR is opened, is the point being made.
Added to this is the fact that fuel injection is reduced. You cannot make more power with less fuel. This is program controlled.
The next thing that happens is the Ignition Timing is advanced. This is also program controlled.
I explained all this above.
If you need proof of this, connect a Scanner to the DTC port, set the Scanner to view Ignition timing and watch it go advanced when the EGR system is commanded to open in the 55 to 60 mph range in OD and very light cruise throttle. You would see the timing go well over 30 degrees advanced.
It is these conditions the truck spends most of the driving time that Emissions are reduced by the EGR system.
This was also federal law to enable the truck to be sold to the public when the system passed federal tests.
The system lowers combustion temps to >>reduce<< Oxides of Nitrogen in the exhaust when it is most produced in volume over time.
The throttle body TPS Sensor, Rpm sensing mainly determines the "Window" when Egr will be commanded to open, then the Ox Sensors detect the exhaust has a lack of oxygen and fuel gets commanded to be reduced and Timing advanced.
You see why it's not just a simple block off that does nothing for power.
It's a complex system to do one function and that is not to add power or take any away when you don't need it.
A proper functioning EGR is transparent to normal driving.

 

I'm not really understanding why you think I dispute any of that. I thought I've made it clear more than once that I believe you and roraysor. I've also said that I put the idea to rest. I have no intentions of blocking off my EGR. All I did was ask follow up question to a response. I'm simply trying to have a discussion with somebody who knows more about the subject than I do. I welcome your insights on this subject but I don't see where insulting my thinking process is helpful. Furthermore I do not have any intentions of purchasing an EGR delete kit or racing pipes or cold air intakes. Not even sure where that really came from.

 

Just lurking around the forums here and had to say - Thank you, for this clear and valuable information.
Experiencing all of the above, strange leans, stumble at light idle/OD cruise, some real O2 head scratchers (that suddenly make sense now) and the timing advance (I wasn't aware of)..been searching and lurking for awhile now trying to interpret my data, and I believe you just nailed it. Confirming what I've already suspected...Have performed some basic tests (applied vacuum to valve, solenoid test, check for leaks, etc) but inconclusive, so swapping out my EGR, hoping it's not the ports..High mileage, so probably just swap out the pressure diff and solenoid while I'm at it..also plan on checking the front ports at the valve with a mirror to see how they're looking now, and go from there..Assume their condition will give some insight into whether any internal ports may be clogged..
​​Anyways, Tvm again for the great info and additional insight.
-Mike

 

Strange leans and higher mileage engine? Like as in P0171/0174?

You need to pull the intake and replace the manifold gasket, isolator bolts and then you can clean out the EGR ports if need be.

In my case and having done the above procedure 3X, it wasn’t until the engine started burning oil that the intake needed a good wiping down.

 

*Update and a big thanks again to Bluegrass.
So as mentioned, your post pretty much nailed my data and after swapping out my EGR valve and cleaning the EGR port (wasn't too bad) really well with Carb cleaner, a small pipe brush, and vacuum..and instead of a mirror I picked up a great 16ft endoscope camera for $25 to peek down inside. (Highly recommend!! a stand alone, the phone endoscopes software just isn't there yet. But boy all the work and checks I can do with this thing now lol), All 11 codes, including 3 misfires, gone, cleared, and 100 miles later my '03 4.2l work truck is running like a top again. Just amazing..
Think it's Important to note: in my case I believe the valve was sticking open and closed, partially and or intermittently, and sending codes and the data all over the place from one start up to the next.. I'd sometimes (often) pull over and shut off the truck and restart just to get it running "normal" for the drive home..
​​At any rate, simple repair, ik, but I'd have sworn I was doing injectors isolators and intakes, etc in the middle of NE winter if I couldn't get it nailed it down, and was already just about done throwing parts at it 🍻