Doing the 5.4 exhaust manifold thing
 

So, I just picked up a 2001 5.4 screw with 128k and i'm about to tackle the passenger exhaust manifold job. I have broken studs and a hole(holes?) in the manifold. It appears a PO tried some birdsh&t weld over the hole at some point but its blown out/rusted away. I've done a ton of reading here and was going to use the factory manifold over the dorman despite the price difference. Is this a good move or waste of money? I don't want to do this more than once per side.
The plan is factory manifold, fel pro gaskets and stainless hardware.
Pb blaster soak a few days before, remove fender liner, move/remove starter, jack engine to make room and go at it. I have a wire feed welder should it come to that, stud remover, and will get some extractors. Thoughts on manifolds?
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f15...197c1897f6.jpg

Eric Obrochta of South Main Auto did a video of a 6.8, which is basically a 5.4 with 2 extra cylinders. You ought to check these out.....

Just be DANG careful, should you drill a stud. You can hit a water jacket if you go too deep. So, go slow!

Here's another...

yea, a broken stud way down in the hole is a big fear.

Thanks for the videos!

Good vid, he's thorough. Just a tip that makes it easier, specially with manifold bolts, - use M42 left handed bits or just a good bits...avoid the easy out extractors if you can. Those studs will back right out on the bit, after a centered pilot hole has been achieved. Accuracy there counts. If you notice in the vid, the broken studs turn inside the thread chamber. That's the way most of them go.

Also, you have a good plan but, I would stick with Ford gaskets, no need for starter removal, also, jacking the engine isn't required. Need a nice sharp center punch, self centering if possible IF they are recessed into the chamber. You have better options if not. If you use the wire feed, do a hard disconnect on both battery and PCM...PCM is a simple disconnect.

If you use anti-seize, just use enough to seal the thread chamber air tight. DO NOT use anti seize torque reduction tables with the studs, snug them up good and achieve torque with the stud nuts. Make sure you flush the thread chambers well before hand.

To help prevent gasket leakage, torque the manifold from the center out. Check torque after a heat cycle or two for good measure. Rate of fun varies lol :thumbsup:

Also, keep the ground as close to your work as possible if using the welder.

It would probably be a good idea to change your upstream O2 sensors while you have the exaust disconnected from the manifolds, if the O2 sensors are the originals.
Rock Auto has the Motorcraft O2 gray connector upstream sensors in stock if you want to stay with original equipment and your connectors are gray.
If you want to change the downstream O2 sensors Ford discontinued the blue connector sensors and now use a white universal connector sensor, part # DY-1401.
I installed them a couple weeks ago and no problems so far. RA also has them in stock.

Great info guys. I'll use factory manifolds and gaskets and I'll look for left handed bits.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f15...d00fbe46eb.jpg


Thoughts on this stainless hardware?

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f15...e8b5a64680.jpg

Yea you have to watch the stud grade on those. They should be 9.8 or better. Or they'll just snap again.

Other than than rust, the studs in the rear snap because of bad trans mounts. Trans mounts last approximately 90,000 miles before the bushing material has been depleted. And because Ford ties the exhaust Y to the trans mount, it sinks stressing the Y. That in combination with mount being metal to metal, you get driveline vibrations transmitting to the manifolds and bolts. This is why they snap in the rear and no where else...usually. Trans mounts are cheap and easy to replace. You did say you only wish to do this once, -check the gap in the mount below the transmission. The gap designates bushing material, should be about a 1/2". 0 gap = metal to metal.