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- - Cranks but no start (https://www.f150forum.com/f6/cranks-but-no-start-440205/)

Cranks but no start

So I recently had to pull the motor out of my truck to do some maintenance. It’s been sitting for quite a while. Well I get everything plugged back in today and hooked it up to some jumper cables. The engine will turn over but it’s not firing up. I have fuel pressure. I’m not sure where to start while checking spark issues. Any help would be very much appreciated.

Pulled the engine for maintenance lol ? That's a new one, what kind of truck is this ? Gen 10 Fords need their own battery to start and stay running. Beginning with a fully charged battery is your best bet. Battery charges are cheap as well. :thumbsup:

It’s an 02 with a 4.6. Trying to fix everything has been an absolute nightmare.... I don’t want to have to completely recap everything I’ve done. In short the transmission went out and the truck is from the north and it’s rusty everywhere. It’s been on the trickle charger for a while I’ll try it again.

Yea, should have at least 11.6 volts to run correctly. Bare minimum to start is around 10.9 volts. The fuel pump, sensors among other 12V components struggle relying just on the alternator alone and right off.

A trickle charger is the best way to go, you didn't mention that before. A timed charge, on and off again is the best way to bring the battery back up. It shouldn't take long to charge unless you have a bad cell.

But yea, screwing with a bad battery, no fun, these truck will become possessed is a way and play games with yuh lol. Better to avoid all that all together. So , if a trickle charge didn't take, your going to need a battery most likley. Do you have a multi meter ? A good battery should read and stabilize around 12.4 volts fully charged. A good alternator (charging system) should read 14.6 volts at the posts when running. :thumbsup:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jbrew (Post 6105129)

I understand! I’ll try it one more time. If not I’ll go get the battery tested. I also don’t have a multimeter. So I’ll pick one up while I’m out. Thanks for the info! I’ll keep updating as things go along.

Quote:

Originally Posted by flyinkman (Post 6105183)

No problem. Yea, a real cheap basic 15 dollar MM is all you need. They enough functions while they function to get you by. Come in handy. :thumbsup:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jbrew (Post 6105326)

No problem. Yea, a real cheap basic 15 dollar MM is all you need. They enough functions while they function to get you by. Come in handy. :thumbsup:

Ok, I’ve got a multimeter. Also a second set of hands. We can get it to run with some starting fluid it doesn’t run rough like it’s miss firing or anything but it doesn’t stay running. I do have fuel pressure at the rail. Its 38psi after I turn the key to let the fuel pump prime. The battery charged all night, I dropped it off at advanced auto. They checked it and it came out to 12.9v and 759cca so my battery has good life in it.

Would I I be right to feel like my injectors aren’t firing like they should?

Update: I got the truck to start with starting fluid. If I crank it with out the starting fluid it won’t start. It will run on it’s own after the fluid but the idle is really high! 2500-3000rpms. Still I am having a hard time trying to figure out why it won’t crank up on its own.

Update: got the truck to start on its own! After I got it started with the fluid I let it run long enough to throw some codes. I got a p1121 code. It’s a throttle position sensor. Replaced that and unhooked the negative terminal to reset the computer. After I plugged it back in it started right up and runs like a dream.

Strange one for sure, glade it's fixed!