Cranked t-bars and shocks educate me
10-02-2017, 01:54 PM
#11
All possibilities lol
Have had this about a year now I use it as a jeep Load the back up to haul things to my property on weekends and then I use it like a jeep, I'm an old man I don't pound on this but it get's flexed and worked crawling over old mine trails and driven down old dry creeks.
Shocks look like cheep ones maybe washer was cheep steel or had a flaw.
Now I could be wrong but it looks to me like the shock is what bottoms out first on extension and I can see where to much extension is a bad thing for axles, CV joints.
From Rancho
2 1/2" lift 10.25 compressed 15.4 extended
4" lift 11.75 compressed 18 extended
Have had this about a year now I use it as a jeep Load the back up to haul things to my property on weekends and then I use it like a jeep, I'm an old man I don't pound on this but it get's flexed and worked crawling over old mine trails and driven down old dry creeks.
Shocks look like cheep ones maybe washer was cheep steel or had a flaw.
Now I could be wrong but it looks to me like the shock is what bottoms out first on extension and I can see where to much extension is a bad thing for axles, CV joints.
From Rancho
2 1/2" lift 10.25 compressed 15.4 extended
4" lift 11.75 compressed 18 extended
10-02-2017, 02:39 PM
#12
Senior Member
Yea, they shouldn't pull through the top like that...ever with the correct hardware/bushing. BUT, what usually happens with a crank is you'll go through lower bushings and over compress the uppers. This is due to the fact most shocks don't have that extra capacity for a crank. You can crank it a little, but not very much. Too much and even with new shocks your won't get a good ride. The bottom bushing will U-shape quickly. Too bad they don't make shock extenders that will work.
However, there is only one real good way to do this that gives you superior bushings and the proper length shocks (proper length shocks IS the key here). Fox sells shocks for our gen 10's rated for 0-2" lift applications. These shocks are advertised this way and are also a must for cranked bars. I've been running them for 6 months now after trashing Bilstien bushings for years. Your still going to have a stiffer ride when you crank the bars, but at least you can get some dampening now, so it's not that bad. Much easier on the front end.
However, there is only one real good way to do this that gives you superior bushings and the proper length shocks (proper length shocks IS the key here). Fox sells shocks for our gen 10's rated for 0-2" lift applications. These shocks are advertised this way and are also a must for cranked bars. I've been running them for 6 months now after trashing Bilstien bushings for years. Your still going to have a stiffer ride when you crank the bars, but at least you can get some dampening now, so it's not that bad. Much easier on the front end.
The following users liked this post:
poorboy1964 (10-02-2017)
10-02-2017, 02:43 PM
#13
Senior Member
The following users liked this post:
poorboy1964 (10-02-2017)
10-02-2017, 04:36 PM
#14
Yea, they shouldn't pull through the top like that...ever with the correct hardware/bushing. BUT, what usually happens with a crank is you'll go through lower bushings and over compress the uppers. This is due to the fact most shocks don't have that extra capacity for a crank. You can crank it a little, but not very much. Too much and even with new shocks your won't get a good ride. The bottom bushing will U-shape quickly. Too bad they don't make shock extenders that will work.
However, there is only one real good way to do this that gives you superior bushings and the proper length shocks (proper length shocks IS the key here). Fox sells shocks for our gen 10's rated for 0-2" lift applications. These shocks are advertised this way and are also a must for cranked bars. I've been running them for 6 months now after trashing Bilstien bushings for years. Your still going to have a stiffer ride when you crank the bars, but at least you can get some dampening now, so it's not that bad. Much easier on the front end.
However, there is only one real good way to do this that gives you superior bushings and the proper length shocks (proper length shocks IS the key here). Fox sells shocks for our gen 10's rated for 0-2" lift applications. These shocks are advertised this way and are also a must for cranked bars. I've been running them for 6 months now after trashing Bilstien bushings for years. Your still going to have a stiffer ride when you crank the bars, but at least you can get some dampening now, so it's not that bad. Much easier on the front end.
10-02-2017, 07:58 PM
#16
Did YOU install those shocks.........cause the top bushing and big metal washer seem to be not there.
If so, hey we all make mistakes.
Even tire shops leave lug nuts off now and then and wheel falls off a block away....Oil shops dont tighten drain plugs and vibrate out...etc
Last edited by mbb; 10-02-2017 at 08:06 PM.
10-02-2017, 08:33 PM
#17
Senior Member
You can make your from ANL fittings or aircraft fittings. Just about any 3rd party auto supply makes hydraulic hoses in the back. Easy oil changes that's for sure.
The following users liked this post:
poorboy1964 (10-03-2017)
10-02-2017, 09:53 PM
#18
Senior Member
Originally Posted by mbb
Did YOU install those shocks.........cause the top bushing and big metal washer seem to be not there.
If so, hey we all make mistakes.
Even tire shops leave lug nuts off now and then and wheel falls off a block away....Oil shops dont tighten drain plugs and vibrate out...etc
If so, hey we all make mistakes.
Even tire shops leave lug nuts off now and then and wheel falls off a block away....Oil shops dont tighten drain plugs and vibrate out...etc
And I’ve had twice at a dealership the mechanics forgot to put the oil cap back on! Got free oil changes outta that one. But That’s why I always check the vehicle in the dealership parking lot. I try to do my own changes when I can buy sometimes there’s not enough hours in a day.
Always best to do jobs yourself so you know it’s done right lol
10-03-2017, 10:55 AM
#19
Did YOU install those shocks.........cause the top bushing and big metal washer seem to be not there.
If so, hey we all make mistakes.
Even tire shops leave lug nuts off now and then and wheel falls off a block away....Oil shops dont tighten drain plugs and vibrate out...etc
If so, hey we all make mistakes.
Even tire shops leave lug nuts off now and then and wheel falls off a block away....Oil shops dont tighten drain plugs and vibrate out...etc
Funny you mention that, had a truck in a local shop, they went to test drive it, new guy didn’t torque lug nuts down... wheel fell off. Minor damage and they fixed it all free of cost obviously lol
And I’ve had twice at a dealership the mechanics forgot to put the oil cap back on! Got free oil changes outta that one. But That’s why I always check the vehicle in the dealership parking lot. I try to do my own changes when I can buy sometimes there’s not enough hours in a day.
Always best to do jobs yourself so you know it’s done right lol
And I’ve had twice at a dealership the mechanics forgot to put the oil cap back on! Got free oil changes outta that one. But That’s why I always check the vehicle in the dealership parking lot. I try to do my own changes when I can buy sometimes there’s not enough hours in a day.
Always best to do jobs yourself so you know it’s done right lol