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Couple of questions about a possible regear

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Old 03-25-2014, 07:15 PM
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Default Couple of questions about a possible regear

I upgraded to 305/70/17 tires.

I know I ought to regear.

It's looking like 4.10 to get back to stock ratio.

I talked to a local shop today. He's asking $1500 for a total regear with new bearings and seals throughout.

Price sound about right? I didn't think that was too bad.

He said for another $580 he'd put in what he called a Detroit Locker or something to that effect. He explained it that at low speeds it would open up and allow you to maneuver easier in paved parking lots and such but when you need the limited slip it would be there for me.

Is that something that you guys would recommend? Price sound about right? Really he is the only game in town, but he seemed very knowledgeable and courteous...however, I don't know much about gearing at all.
Old 03-25-2014, 10:03 PM
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Price sounds quite reasonable. If I understand the concept of a locker is that when you find yourself needing to spin BOTH tires you can engage the locker and make your rear diff "posi-lock". Rather than putting most of the power on the tire that spins the easiest and letting the spider gears engage and move the other tire, with the locker engaged both tires will spin at the same rate, no matter if one spins easier than the other.
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Old 03-26-2014, 12:05 AM
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Does that happen automatically, or would I need to do something to engage the lock?

Also for a truck that will hardly if ever go off roading, would the locker be of much if any use to me?
Old 03-26-2014, 12:26 AM
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Originally Posted by trixR4kids
Does that happen automatically, or would I need to do something to engage the lock?

Also for a truck that will hardly if ever go off roading, would the locker be of much if any use to me?
A locker would only be useful if you plan on getting stuck. If you have a bunch of buddies out wheelin' with you, then you could get someone to pull you out. But if you're off exploring in just your truck and you get stuck a posi-trac differential would be a huge asset for getting out.

If you don't go looking for mud holes, you probably don't need a diff locker.

And just for future info, some lockers you need to flip a switch or push a button, and I think Eaton makes a locker than can engage automatically. All depends on the brand and model of locker that is installed.
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Old 03-26-2014, 01:17 AM
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Im assuming you are 4x4. If he is saying $1500 for both front and rear diffs with new bearings thats an awesome price.

If you live where it snows, the detroit true trac is a MUST!!

Better to do things once than to go back and do it again. 4.10s will be good for you but if you plan on eventually moving up a size go with 4.56s.

The true trac will engage by itself without the driver needing to do anything. If one wheel slips, the other kicks in and both spin. There are no clutch packs like the factory limited slip so thr detroit true trac will basically last forever without needing to be replaced. Diff oil will not need friction modifier either because there are no clutches.

In all reality if you are getting gears, dont cheap out and do it right. Ive got 4.56s front and rear with a true trac in the rear and couldnt be happier. Any more questions feel free to ask.
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Old 03-26-2014, 06:57 AM
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Thanks guys. That makes a lot of sense. The guy I talked to said that there wouldn't be any extra labor charge for the locker since they'd be taking all those pieces out and reinstalling anyway. At $2100 for everything I think I'll just go for it. Looks like I'll be spending more on the regear than I did on the whole truck.



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