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Coolant leak

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Old 08-21-2015, 03:37 PM
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Default Coolant leak



Well Gentleman....

This is my first post after lurking for a long time. Thanks to this site, I have discovered how to turn on my fog lights...lol, seatcovers, shocks, new headlamps, so thanks for all the wonderful info.

I drive a 03 Supercrew FX which I love. The other day it got hot . Never had a problem before. I noticed some smell (antifreeze burn) and prayed. I filled it again and had no problem. Unfortunatley, during the next day, I kept on noticing that distinct antifreeze smell and knew there was a problem. I was afraid I fried a head gasket. However, after closer inspection, I discovered water up high.

In the pic, you can see antifreeze sitting in the injector. I noticed water down beside it and it was dripping off the back bolt of that crossover (after research, I believe thats what it's called).

I drove it to my fathers house for him to look (good mechanic). When we opened it, it was all dry. He said it may have warmed up and the metal expanded and kept it in. My bottle had only gone down a inch or two. Its when I drive it in town (12 min to work) that it will get wet.

So...do you guys think it's leaking from that crossover? Is it attached to the center manifold? Can I just take the three bolts out, along the other side too, and just put a new gasket on it? Pop says he would just put some Bars Leak in it but I'm not sure I want to do that after what I read here.

I love the truck, but it's got 168,000 on it and I have been thinking of getting a 08 or newer.

Thank you so much for your thoughts....

Steve
Old 08-21-2015, 04:35 PM
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Hey Steve, I had the same leak in my manifold in the same location on my previous '01 SCrew XLT Off Road with 182k miles. I did an exhaustive search here and many others had similar problems. The intake manifold is a combination of cast metal and plastic runners with a rubber gasket. It is the plastic section integrated beneath the metal part that you have pictured that cracks. One solution I have read that others have tried is pulling the manifold and epoxying the plastic section as the repair. I was prepared to do that but also ordered a new manifold from Rock auto at the same time in case my problem was more extensive. So when my manifold arrived I commenced the tear down. Which, btw, is not bad. It took me a total of 8 hours of clock time for R&R. A shop quoted me 4 hours and $860.
So I found that the plastic ear of the intake runner was cracked. The rubber gasket still was intact. I changed my mind about doing an epoxy repair just for the peace of mind so I just replaced the whole manifold. That corner of the manifold I have read is subject to higher heat and lesser dissipation just by its location and design so just didn't want to take the gamble. I tow a 3,000# boat over the mountain passes in the summer.
Anyways, changed the plugs and coils while I had her opened up and she runs like a dream. I did have to borrow from O'Reilly's a fuel line removal tool, I think that's what it was. This was three years ago.
Currently I have an '01 SCrew Lariat. It has a non-functioning cruise control that I am searching for solutions.
Good luck. Ask questions.
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Old 08-21-2015, 05:44 PM
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Olliesxl,

thank you so much for the reply. I was really worried but am glad it's not the heads or I may have went a different direction.

I'll do some parts searching. Thanks again.

Steve
Old 08-21-2015, 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by olliesxl
Hey Steve, I had the same leak in my manifold in the same location on my previous '01 SCrew XLT Off Road with 182k miles. I did an exhaustive search here and many others had similar problems. The intake manifold is a combination of cast metal and plastic runners with a rubber gasket. It is the plastic section integrated beneath the metal part that you have pictured that cracks. One solution I have read that others have tried is pulling the manifold and epoxying the plastic section as the repair. I was prepared to do that but also ordered a new manifold from Rock auto at the same time in case my problem was more extensive. So when my manifold arrived I commenced the tear down. Which, btw, is not bad. It took me a total of 8 hours of clock time for R&R. A shop quoted me 4 hours and $860.
So I found that the plastic ear of the intake runner was cracked. The rubber gasket still was intact. I changed my mind about doing an epoxy repair just for the peace of mind so I just replaced the whole manifold. That corner of the manifold I have read is subject to higher heat and lesser dissipation just by its location and design so just didn't want to take the gamble. I tow a 3,000# boat over the mountain passes in the summer.
Anyways, changed the plugs and coils while I had her opened up and she runs like a dream. I did have to borrow from O'Reilly's a fuel line removal tool, I think that's what it was. This was three years ago.
Currently I have an '01 SCrew Lariat. It has a non-functioning cruise control that I am searching for solutions.
Good luck. Ask questions.
So these trucks have a cruise control self diagnosis test built in. There is even a write-up on here somewhere.
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olliesxl (08-21-2015)
Old 09-10-2015, 11:30 AM
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Wanted to give a little update...
Got to pull the manifold this holiday weekend.....yippee (dang hot here in Texas!) As you can see in the pick, she was leaking good towards the front.

Overall, was easier than I thouht it would be. The heads looked good, everything was fine so the repair was easy. Certainly not as hard as I thought it would be. Had concerns on getting the torque wrench in there but was a piece of cake.

Got it all on and started it. Ran terrible but since I cleaned the Throttle body, figured the comp. was "adjusting". But come to find out, I had a miss. It was the number 2 cylinder and I just moved it with my finger and it quit missing. It now runs better than ever. I certainly replaced the plugs (dont want to tell you what #8 looked like )

Only thing is my vacum lines. I did not pay good enough attention on some but may be "all roads lead to Rome" as it does run great. Pay attention to the hoses off the throttle body and were the main vacum comes over to the passenger side of the motor (pvc, etc).

But just some advice/thoughts in case someone sees this who is considering it;

1. take your front tires off and drop the truck down. I was ablt to use the tires as step stools and was able to reach all areas under the hood. Had no issues at all with reach
2. Had a booger with the fuel lines. In fact, took me and my dad about 1 1/2 hours of farting with them untill I decided to go to the store to get another tool. DONT BUY the metal "x" flip tool. It stunk. Took 45 min. to get the large diameter line off, forget the smaller line. I went and bought the plastic slip rings. Took ten seconds once I placed it on the line
3. Take good pics of your vac. lines. I took some but not in detail. I know my lines are not all back original but it does run good.
4. I saw the advice about the #7 swivel socket. Get one. You can get it with the swivel and a #7 but it's not worth it. #8 COP was a PITA to say the least. Almost went to the store.

Anyway, wanted to thank all for all the post I read on the subject.



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