Chris760

I was thinking the water pump also. I havent even begun to start replacing things cause I've done this before, you know spending alot of money on parts and things that ended up NOT being the problem. I just flushed my radiator after posting the last comment and totally clean now but no change in situation. I really wouldnt think a head-gasket would do this and would be much more obvious. I did find an article somewhere similar to ours and it was his water pump on a '99 F-150. He didnt go into to much detail though about hot and cold hoses, just his heater didnt work and he replaced the heater core ($700). That didnt work and replaced the water pump and it solved the problem. Try the water-pump quick and get back to me...haha. If it is the head gasket, I'm gonna scrap the truck. It's gonna cost more than I paid for it.

deslippefarmer

it sounds like its the water pump to me if ur coolant level doesnt seam to have droped any then its probaly not the head gasket, another thing to check for is make sure that u dont have an airlock try running it with ur rad cap off and heat on full for about 15 20 min if nothing changes then next step would be water pump, hope u figure it out

seniorFORDtech

if you both have a 4.2 v6 and the systems were rusty you need to remove the water pump and check the impeller. they have a history of falling apart due to lack of coolant changes this will cause a no heat but not a overheat concern also beaware that the heater core still may be plugged from all the rust in the system previously
good luck

Chris760

I have a V-8 and I really do suspect the water pump. Would you recommend replacing the water pump and flushing the heater core? I have no idea how to do any of this by the way.

jaybird531

well, it seems as though the general concensous is the water pump...That was next on my list also. I didn't think of the fins breaking apart. no noise..Well, I will be replacing it in a week and a half when I get paid...I will let all know...either way, I really do appreciate all of the input...

Ryano

Try and get some pictures and post them. Good luck guys.

seniorFORDtech

yes, you want to check for a loose impeller that will spin on the shaft but not turn the pulley or the fins will be almost or gone completely then reverse flush your core

Cain

it is possible that someone was putting things on the dashboard and it fell through the defrost vent, dropped down and finally became lodged keeping the flap from moving. Took me about a week to finally figure that out on a sable i used to own. i tried taking the venting system apart, but it required removing the entire dashboard, so i cut into it with a dremel and sure enough, there was a some sort of stick that got down in there and jammed it up.. I removed it, and used metal tape to seal the vent system back up.

it is never a good idea to put any loose objects on top of your dashboard!

Ryano

Flushing the heater core both directions might get most of the build up out, if thay could use hot water they could even check to see if blend door is working properly and the cab is getting heat.

A few years back we had is s10 that had a rust buildup , we flushed everthing until the water ran clear, filled it up with water and ran it afew more days , dained every thing again , it was still rusty but not near as bad. The street ws stained all the way to the storm sewer drains, I had to get out 200 feet of hose and wash the street before it dried.

jaybird531

Update....I took the advice and flushed out the heater core. Great stuff...now I have heat. I thank you all for the advice. Now, the only issue, (and I am not sure it is an issue), is...I have replaced the thermostat, water pump and radiator...the upper radiator hose gets hot, but the lower radiator hose stays cold, and it is not overheating. I have never noticed this on any other vehicle before. Is this natural on a Ford?..oh, and by the way, the water pump was in good shape. But still, it was the next logical step. I appreciate all of your help. ..Hey, and Bill, I am thinking the same thing about the temp difference, but just making sure. I does make sense, that the top hose is the return, and should be hot, and the bottom is send, and should be cool. Circulating thru the radiator should cool the coolant enough...And by the way...Does anyone know where the coolant temp switch sits on the 432 engine? Where the book says it is, it ain't...