When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Usually a sign someone didn't use distilled water. Once it starts corroding, it gets that brown color.
Maybe tap water helped, but the anti-corrosion properties of the antifreeze degrade over time. I think the recommended change interval for the green stuff is two years. And yes, you should ALWAYS use distilled water.
I like to add additional water pump lube with additional corrosion inhibitors when I change coolant though it is probably overkill on my 17yr old beater.
To me, it's easier just to buy the 50/50 mix. Since it has become rusty, if this were my truck, I would change it 2 or 3 times in the next year. Probably even swap the radiator out. As indicated, the cooling system needs to be as clean as possible at all times.
I couldn't get 50/50 Motorcraft spec without paying a fortune for it 4 months ago. Well, I think that's why, or I couldn't find the stuff lol. Had to get the concentrated, perhaps it was shipping ? Hell, I can't remember now...geeezzz lol. I do recall fishing for pre-mix and struck out...would of rather stocked that vs concentrated. Good thing is, concentrated takes up less room on the shelf. It's a fricken win after all. Too much shopping and I get all confused.
Maybe tap water helped, but the anti-corrosion properties of the antifreeze degrade over time. I think the recommended change interval for the green stuff is two years. And yes, you should ALWAYS use distilled water.
I like to add additional water pump lube with additional corrosion inhibitors when I change coolant though it is probably overkill on my 17yr old beater.
If your speaking of treatment plant or city water. Most treated water contains fluoride, or fluoride ions that enhance cooling system corrosion. Pretty sure it's not as bad as being on some wells and using it out of the spicket. Hard water can contain a high content of calcium and iron.You may have the ability to see the iron in a glass of water in the form of small black *****. Yea that's iron fortified and corrosive as hell and difficult to flush once contaminated. The worst you can do in other words.
But yea, distilled water from the get go is the way to do it. Fluoride being soluble SHOULD rinse right out when flushing if using city water or tap to assist. That's my understanding only. Distilled isn't pricey, can be a lot to lug around if your flushing two or three times to remove all contaminants and start back out squeaky clean inside.
This is what I have been using lately. I get it for 5 bucks a jug with my discount. It's made for them by OWI (Peak). So far I have been really impressed.
That should be good, I was looking for the Peak long life which is probably the same stuff as that. Inevitably decided to go with the Motorcraft this time. I'm not sure the Motorcraft is rated long life. I don't think I've 150,000 miles before changing it out, maybe half that. Iduno, the 98 has 350,000 miles and still has the original heater core (knock on wood), I must be doing okay lol.
My core looked perfect when I had the box open a couple months ago. I'm guessing it's the original as well. I've owned this truck for 7 years (45,000 miles) and changed it 3 times. The guy who had it before me was a stickler for maintenance as well.
I couldn't get 50/50 Motorcraft spec without paying a fortune for it 4 months ago. Well, I think that's why, or I couldn't find the stuff lol. Had to get the concentrated, perhaps it was shipping ? Hell, I can't remember now...geeezzz lol. I do recall fishing for pre-mix and struck out...would of rather stocked that vs concentrated. Good thing is, concentrated takes up less room on the shelf. It's a fricken win after all. Too much shopping and I get all confused.
Ha- once you get passed 50, half the time you cant remember where you crapped last, much less if you did the paper work!
09-02-2018, 09:31 AM
