mh64

Well thats what the other part of me says. haha only reason I bring up non motorcrafts is cause i saw the denso's and I know that thats a tested brand. Only other brand I would cnsider putting in my truck for coils. And I have never heard a mention of the denso coild before. thats the only reason that Id want to try it.

JMU-03-f150

I took my truck to the shop today and I didn't get to phone calls or nothing saying that he had trouble getting it, it came back fine

JMU-03-f150

Got it fixed today by having more issues on the battery or alternator aside of things I'm pretty sure it's battery, I've tried charging it and it'll crank perfect, turn it off and turn it back on and it'll barely start so yea new battery probably tomorrow and if that don't work then alternator but thanks man really for the info I would've done your solutions but I didn't think the mechanic would have time to get the truck working today but again really appreciated it.

lutter5-0

Want the best battery for your $? Go to advance auto parts website, find your battery, add to cart, use coupon code TRT41. it should give you off $40 off of 100 or more. Basically 40% off. You might have to create a speedperks account, select pickup in store, whatever your nearest store is, they should have it waiting in a half hour. Works for carquest locations too, since AAP bought them.

aihlanfeldt

Not to hijack the thread, but I may be a victim of this myself.

I just recently replaced all 8 coils and plugs, it was running like pure hell before they were all changed out. I just chalked it up to the fact that the truck was sitting up for a long time not running... After they've all been swapped out I feel like the truck is still performing terribly. I drove 79 miles today and burnt over a quarter tank of gas.

I can not say that I am experiencing a miss/skip that is significantly noticeable, but something is clearly off. No vacuum leaks, has new TPS, IAC, throttle body was just cleaned, new fuel pump ( why it was not running ) and filter. No codes are displayed when hooked to the scanner and it doesn't throw CEL.

Any thoughts?

FL_F150

Been having coil pack woes this past two months.... I bought some cheap chinese ones off ebay.... lasted all of two days.
Bought some BWD's at autozone... lasted 3 weeks.... make sure you gap your plugs correctly, it makes a difference.
I'm still having rough starts.... so i keep the rpm above 1,500 for about 3-4 minutes, it settles down after that and purrs like a kitten. I suspect one of my plugs is still not gaped correctly.
The 42-45 rough riding is probably your tires or rims. I've had it for about 8 years now. Balanced the old tires three times and each time rotated... it eased up a bit.
With new tires I have now... rough ride is back, so I'm thinking it is a rim or a rotor... I'm going to experiment with my spare, and put it in different positions to see if the rough goes away.
I'll check back in later.
Oh, i've changed IAC, Map and TPS..... still have rough starts...
P.S. my manual calls for .054 for a gap... don't go less, runs real crappy

FL_F150

Still throwing P035 and P037 codes for bad coil at 4 and 6, have changed them out 3 times using new coils and plugs each time.
I am thinking there is a wire short somewhere giving me those codes, I can still let it rev about 1,700 for three minutes at start and after about 4 minutes you can hear a change in motor sound, and it levels out to a purr when you let back off and it returns to 700 rpm idle
Let off anytime before that 3 min mark and it throws codes for #4 and 6 and idles like crap. Can't put torque on it either with out jumping like a john deere, unless you go into high rpms.
Drove it jerky for about 5 minutes and it stopped and ran great.
Guess I'll start my own thread on it. Unless a mod can move my stuff for me...

mh64

check you injectors, a friend of mine 10th gen ran into a similar problem. hell, even ford told him it was a bad head gasket at 120k. took it in for a second opinion somewhere else, they swapped #7 injector with #5 and the code followed. swapped it out and has never had the problem since. But it was a miss much of the time when the injectors hadn't warmed up yet.you may find something there. and check and make sure that you have ample volts at the plug in on the harness for the COP.

Jbrew

Right! Mode 06/cylinder history is nice, but hell you really don't have to have it that now a days. Techs have been using their phones just for the live data. Take the customers vehicle for a ride and at 45 mph your phone points out the missing cylinder since that's the low grade misfire load. We never had that option in the past darnet ! So anyone with a phone can due this now.

I've owned one of these trucks for almost 20 years. Haven't had a coil problem again in almost 10 years...licked that one long ago. I'm not counting the time when I lost half my coils, the PCM, upstream O2's and engine harness welding on my headers, #4 coil lost most of it's housing where all those amps finally found ground. Just the housing blew apart.
Anyway, there's 1 solid choice you can make to handle coil problem, -quick easy done and you pretty much won't suffer another coil problem (COP) with these engines for a very long time. Under the usual circumstances, when one goes, replace them all, it's time. To date, there is just 1 manufacturer (there use to be 2 "Visteon") who makes coils for these trucks that have the double build magnets and proper thermal protection (the rest, ALL others do not), that's Motorcraft's DG508. Paired with good plugs (many don't know what those are because they don't read the owners manual for their product or take the time to download one).

Skip to the chase - I don't have coil problems anymore because it's cheap (smart, earned the hard way lol) to handle it right the first time. Replace all, the most I've paid for a complete set was $249 3 years ago when I fried my Visteons welding. The ONLY place you can do this is at e bay. You replace them all to keep ignition integrity and that's very important with these COP systems. It's like when you replace O2's you should replace all 4 IF you want the best fuel economy these trucks can get. You do that to equalize switching and your AF's (the rear O2's ARE NOT just cat checkers). Coils wear and slow down with time like everything else (plugs do the same). Keeping integrity is key but even more so with coils. Because when they begin to fail, it's domino's in slow motion and the engine will not run at it's best if you continue to play that game. The ignition problems just compound.

FL_F150

My BWD's are warrentied for life, you would think they would not do that if they were not OEM products. Going to go to autozone and get two replacements next time it throws a code, and change them right at the parts store (only takes about 10 min now that I have practice )
Thanks for the info about the fuel injectors, i'll have to read up on that and watch a couple of videos.