Can't turn front wheels with 4x4 disengaged
11-24-2016, 11:04 AM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Can't turn front wheels with 4x4 disengaged
When changing my shocks and ball joints I noticed I couldn't turn the front wheels manually even though 4x4 was disengaged.
No noticeable noises, clunks or else when driving. 4x4 does engage on demand.
Should I be worrying/checking about something?
Edit : Pads and rotor are a month old ; calipers weren't seized. Bearings are about a year old.
No noticeable noises, clunks or else when driving. 4x4 does engage on demand.
Should I be worrying/checking about something?
Edit : Pads and rotor are a month old ; calipers weren't seized. Bearings are about a year old.
Last edited by stegarsla; 11-24-2016 at 11:08 AM. Reason: Added details
11-27-2016, 10:37 PM
#2
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Oneida County, Central New York
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Mine was the same way. Could turn by hand but they wouldn't spin on their own.
Check out my thread.
Hope I save you some abuse!
Check out my thread.
Hope I save you some abuse!
Last edited by rsylvstr; 11-27-2016 at 10:39 PM.
11-28-2016, 12:36 AM
#4
Senior Member
When changing my shocks and ball joints I noticed I couldn't turn the front wheels manually even though 4x4 was disengaged.
No noticeable noises, clunks or else when driving. 4x4 does engage on demand.
Should I be worrying/checking about something?
Edit : Pads and rotor are a month old ; calipers weren't seized. Bearings are about a year old.
No noticeable noises, clunks or else when driving. 4x4 does engage on demand.
Should I be worrying/checking about something?
Edit : Pads and rotor are a month old ; calipers weren't seized. Bearings are about a year old.
With a vac tool, connect to the actuator, one side at a time. Apply vac to one side at a time. Work the pin back an forth and see if you can get more movement out of it. Lube it up a little before hand.
Also, the mini tube lines can get brittle and crack.
Yea, I'd start with servicing the actuator then look for a cracked line...a pink or blue line. If you can get the actuator to work and fully disengage the fork with a vac tool, then that's half the battle. Then you need to chase down why.
Last edited by Jbrew; 11-28-2016 at 12:38 AM.
11-28-2016, 11:47 AM
#5
Member
Thread Starter
Is the actuator pin disengaged ? Guess I'd make sure that's working correctly first. Sometimes the Fork wears and fails to function properly. Some have went to extremes modifying the factory part,- substituting the plastic parts in the mechanism with brass for improved operation. Some have also made use of a direct cable.
With a vac tool, connect to the actuator, one side at a time. Apply vac to one side at a time. Work the pin back an forth and see if you can get more movement out of it. Lube it up a little before hand.
Also, the mini tube lines can get brittle and crack.
Yea, I'd start with servicing the actuator then look for a cracked line...a pink or blue line. If you can get the actuator to work and fully disengage the fork with a vac tool, then that's half the battle. Then you need to chase down why.
With a vac tool, connect to the actuator, one side at a time. Apply vac to one side at a time. Work the pin back an forth and see if you can get more movement out of it. Lube it up a little before hand.
Also, the mini tube lines can get brittle and crack.
Yea, I'd start with servicing the actuator then look for a cracked line...a pink or blue line. If you can get the actuator to work and fully disengage the fork with a vac tool, then that's half the battle. Then you need to chase down why.
11-29-2016, 01:48 AM
#6
Senior Member
No problem, hope you find it.
