rowland1980

Can a caliper stick and raise hell one minute and then act normal? Changed rear pads. Testing was good. Next day it all of a sudden stuck. Smoking real bad with a smell. Pulled over and noticed while engaged in drive and without apply brakes the truck stood still. I then tapped brake peddle and tapped caliper. Eventually seemed to let up enough to where I would freely move when in drive but can here not all the way. Back on the road I could feel a slight drag and then a bad drag soon after and didn't touch the brake pedal. This happed six times, smoking bad, and each time I would pull over and repeat. The seventh time I pulled over and sat there for a half hour wishing I had a crowbar on hand to show this bastard whats up. Twenty miles from home I decided I would burn the b**** to hell and leave it there but all was good back on the road. Even applied the brakes many of times in a weird amazement. Made it home and parked it. Giving it a few hours to cool off before I assess the damage if any. If anyone has any insight on calipers pass it my way please.

fordguy2100

Probably one of the hoses are compromised. Other option would be to get a new caliper

akdoggie

They can stick and do. Especially the ones with plastic (phelonic) pistons. When they get hot, they can warp a bit and cause a sticking situation. You most likely will need to replace the caliper with a reman, but if you do one, it is best to do them both. If one is sticking, can the other be far behind?

Krack499

iTrader: (1)

My 97 had the calipers lock up like that I just replaced the caliper and rubber line when it happened I didn't think I needed to do both just cause one stuck my 08 actually just had the front driver's side stick a little one time and I replaced it right away I don't take chances with something like brakes

rowland1980

Don't know what type of piston. Factory so I'm sure it's the phelonic type. May be a awhile before I can replace it, in which I would do both. What ever I do to one side I shortly do right after if not at the same time. Is there a way to disable that caliper if it happened again in the near future? My only ride and live way out in Timbuktu.

Krack499

iTrader: (1)

When my first one locked up we unbolted it from the rotor and strapped it up underneath the wheel well somewhere

rowland1980

In doing that does one need to place something in the gap left from the rotor to keep the piston from blowing out leaking fluid? Not sure that would happen just assumed it would.

Krack499

iTrader: (1)

I never thought of that lol I drove over 30 miles home and it was fine not saying nothing could go wrong it just didn't the time I did it

DrillRig52

I think you should get it fixed properly before you drive it on any state roads or highways. You are putting your life and others in danger if you don't. Brakes are not something to be taken lightly. Sorry to be "that guy" but it's the truth.

rowland1980

Changed both calipers. Didn't have enough for the core charge so the night before took them off. Brake fluid leaked out and figured I would just do a flush on all 4. While putting on the driver side caliper I noticed a grinding noise where I think the bearings are. I looks as if there is more involved to it than the front. Excluding the park brake. If some one can tell me the process of getting to the rear bearings I would be greatful. Again it's a 03 f150 4.6l 2x4 all wheel disks. Heard something about draining the differential fluid first I don't know but soon will I reckon. Thanks all for your input it was and is very much appreciated