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2002 5.4 That setup lasted 1000 miles if that long. Around the Champaign area only Napa could get the bipass pulley apparatus overnight and it was about $60. Advanced Auto had the grooved pulley and belt in stock ad I was on my way back to work. at a total cost of $52.63
Worked perfect! 8 year old post but worked for me. Thanks for the help.
Originally Posted by JohnnyR
I started a thread the other day asking if anyone knew the belt # needed to bypass a seized AC compressor but didn't have any luck. This morning I did the fix to my 99 4.6 4x4 scab and it was too easy. The belt needed to be shorter and I swapped the idler pulley for one the same size but ribbed since the belt now runs over it instead of under it. The end result works so well that I can't figure why Ford went to the trouble of designing the AC/non-AC setups so differently. Here are the Gates part #'s needed to do the job.
I hope this helps anyone else who encounters this all too common problem in the future. The fix is inexpensive and only takes a minute or two to swap the pulley then just change the belt bypassing the compressor and putting it over the idler instead of under it. Back on the road again
I have an 08 F 150 with the 4.6L. the AC compressor is making a terrible racket. I have already tried the serpentine belt for without AC. Following the diagram under the hood the belt was too loose. I switchedbthe side of the idler and tensioner it ran on and it was too short. If anyone has done this and know what belt to ask for I would greatly appreciate it. Thank you.
howdy from Monetville Ontario thanks for your help we were in Georgia traveling to Florida on Sunday bearings went on the ac clutch what do you do google and you fine folks showed up again i was near an auto zone with great folks they let me try belts till i got it right the belt uses its own stretch for tencion as the belt bypasses the clutch the tensioner and one idler pulley works great will fix her up when i get home , with it on there is still about 1/4' clearence between belts coming from crank to alternator from Auto Zone belt number is #6PK2005 and my ford f150 2006 is identical so will work on it as well put belt all around and squeezed it on the top smooth idler
Mark
[QUOTE=JohnnyR;687285]I started a thread the other day asking if anyone knew the belt # needed to bypass a seized AC compressor but didn't have any luck. This morning I did the fix to my 99 4.6 4x4 scab and it was too easy. The belt needed to be shorter and I swapped the idler pulley for one the same size but ribbed since the belt now runs over it instead of under it. The end result works so well that I can't figure why Ford went to the trouble of designing the AC/non-AC setups so differently. Here are the Gates part #'s needed to do the job.
I hope this helps anyone else who encounters this all too common problem in the future. The fix is inexpensive and only takes a minute or two to swap the pulley then just change the belt bypassing the compressor and putting it over the idler instead of under it. Back on the road again
J.R.
I couldnt find an 81 and 1/8 belt. I got an 81.6 belt and it was too big. Squeeled. So l traded the larger idler pulley without ribs, that i had just removed, with the smaller tensioner pulley and this worked perfectly. .
I started a thread the other day asking if anyone knew the belt # needed to bypass a seized AC compressor but didn't have any luck. This morning I did the fix to my 99 4.6 4x4 scab and it was too easy. The belt needed to be shorter and I swapped the idler pulley for one the same size but ribbed since the belt now runs over it instead of under it. The end result works so well that I can't figure why Ford went to the trouble of designing the AC/non-AC setups so differently. Here are the Gates part #'s needed to do the job.
I hope this helps anyone else who encounters this all too common problem in the future. The fix is inexpensive and only takes a minute or two to swap the pulley then just change the belt bypassing the compressor and putting it over the idler instead of under it. Back on the road again
J.R.
Thanks a lot this information help me a lot I was able to run my van
2002 F150 5.4
Eliminated the ac belt route. Left the ac compressor intact.
Replaced the top tensioner pulley w/grooved $18.79 with Part CARQUEST by Dayco Idler Pulley No.89009
The belt seems to be too small at first because it catches on the harmonic balancer and new grooved pulley outer edges. Simply slid the grooved pulley on with the belt in place on all pulleys and balancer and relieved tensioner pulley pressure. After tightening the bolt on grooved pulley release your 1/2 ratchet for belt tension.
CARQUEST by Dayco Idler Pulley No.89009
SPECIFICATIONS
Belt Type: Serpentine
Bracket Included: No
Diameter: 76 mm
Idler Pulley Bearing Inside Diameter: 17 mm
Idler Pulley Groove Quantity: 6
Idler Pulley Material: Polymer
Idler Pulley Width: 28.7 mm
DAVEK1979, I wish to give you a great big thanks!! My compressor gave out on the way home about 250 miles away. Luckily, I was able to make it home with it idling and the clutch hadn't completely locked everything up. I bought the parts you listed from advance and installed them. It was a %^$&%$&^%*%*%^* bitch getting that last bit to slide on but, we managed. I would tell anyone you need two people to really do this job. I'm functional again and I thank you Sir!
What is best option? Doorman delete pulley and tie up the compressor out of the way until I can afford replacement OR a ribbed pulley on the passenger side above the tensioner with a shorter belt? Can’t find the right size belt or the pulley numbers. Anyone help?
What is best option? Doorman delete pulley and tie up the compressor out of the way until I can afford replacement OR a ribbed pulley on the passenger side above the tensioner with a shorter belt? Can’t find the right size belt or the pulley numbers. Anyone help?
I'd reason that if you're not going to remove the compressor from the block, that the ribbed idler and shorter belt would be the best option for you. If you remove the compressor, you'll open the system to the atmosphere which will cause contamination in your ac lines. You'll have a bigger project when you come back to replace the compressor because you'd also need to replace the orfice, condenser, and other lines. I'd leave the compressor in place and route a shorter belt.
Take a read through the posts from 2016ish.. It will also be worth noting if you have a 8 rib or 6 rib best system. Easy to see, just count the ribs on the belt. I'd suggest buying a few belts so you can fine tune them and return the ones you don't need. Turbo Ghost, Dean Studer, JohnnyR, and myself give part numbers.
10-10-2017, 08:06 AM
2007 expedition 5.4 ac bypass
