01-28-2015, 03:41 PM
Last edit by: IB Advertising
Issue: Best type of oil for 5.4 liter triton?
Some users recommend doing a Used Oil Analysis (UOA) to find out what oil works best for you.
Factors to consider:
Read the full discussion below to find out more:
Some users recommend doing a Used Oil Analysis (UOA) to find out what oil works best for you.
Factors to consider:
- Viscosity
- Weight
- Additives
- Detergents
Read the full discussion below to find out more:
Best type of oil for 5.4 liter triton
10-12-2011, 09:53 PM
#12
I spoke with an engineer today from Pennzoil,he told me that the 5w30 or 10w30 synthetic or synthetic blend would be fine in the 5.4 Fords,especially with higher than 75k miles on it but he said once you go to the 30 weights you need to stay with them,He actually Recommended the Rotella 10 w30 synthetic Blend to use in the Ford Truck motors.He said it is very durable and will keep it clean and It has a advantage on the Heavy Trucks like with the V-10 that it will help keep the Valves and Valve train lubricated especially at cold or dry starts it will prolong the Valve train significantly he said.So just passing on the info hope it helps...
1. There is no need for a "thicker" oil at higher mileages except to cover up problems. The systems are still made to operate at the proper viscosity at operating temp, wear or no wear.
2. There is no need to stay with one weight, but the proper weight should be used and stayed with.
3. I'll agree that a 10w30 will probably have better shear resistance than a 5w20 so it may have a little more "durability", but the notion that a "thicker" oil will help more on cold start up is preposterous. Viscosity and film strength are two separate things and the ability of flow is worse with a 10w than a 5w cold. The thinking that a thicker oil clings better is an old myth that companies like Lucas likes to throw around. Rotella is a good oil, but their thinking behind it in application is flawed.
I use quotes for "thicker" and such because I'm speaking in relative terms. Read here for all you ever wanted to know about oil from a reliable source.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/
10-13-2011, 01:43 PM
#13
Senior Member
Wow they need better "engineers".
1. There is no need for a "thicker" oil at higher mileages except to cover up problems. The systems are still made to operate at the proper viscosity at operating temp, wear or no wear.
2. There is no need to stay with one weight, but the proper weight should be used and stayed with.
3. I'll agree that a 10w30 will probably have better shear resistance than a 5w20 so it may have a little more "durability", but the notion that a "thicker" oil will help more on cold start up is preposterous. Viscosity and film strength are two separate things and the ability of flow is worse with a 10w than a 5w cold. The thinking that a thicker oil clings better is an old myth that companies like Lucas likes to throw around. Rotella is a good oil, but their thinking behind it in application is flawed.
I use quotes for "thicker" and such because I'm speaking in relative terms. Read here for all you ever wanted to know about oil from a reliable source.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/
1. There is no need for a "thicker" oil at higher mileages except to cover up problems. The systems are still made to operate at the proper viscosity at operating temp, wear or no wear.
2. There is no need to stay with one weight, but the proper weight should be used and stayed with.
3. I'll agree that a 10w30 will probably have better shear resistance than a 5w20 so it may have a little more "durability", but the notion that a "thicker" oil will help more on cold start up is preposterous. Viscosity and film strength are two separate things and the ability of flow is worse with a 10w than a 5w cold. The thinking that a thicker oil clings better is an old myth that companies like Lucas likes to throw around. Rotella is a good oil, but their thinking behind it in application is flawed.
I use quotes for "thicker" and such because I'm speaking in relative terms. Read here for all you ever wanted to know about oil from a reliable source.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/
10-13-2011, 04:46 PM
#14
Senior Member
5-20W synthetic blend has worked fine for me but I am switching over to all synthetic, especially since my Kmart ran a clearance on Mobil 1 5w-20 older design gallon containers for $14.00 a gallon, and I bought 4 of them (all they had) when I went to buy oil for an oil change. LOL
Besides, the Ford dealership said to never use anything but 5W-20 synthetic blend or pure synthetic. Thicker is not always better with oil, maybe gravy or BBQ sauce, but not oil.
Thin oil gets thrown up into the engine quicker, especially when starting the engine after it sits overnight. Starting the engine is when up to 70% of all engine wear occurs. An aircraft I flew has an electric system that pressurizes the oil in the engine before starting, to reduce engine wear and possible engine damage.
Besides, the Ford dealership said to never use anything but 5W-20 synthetic blend or pure synthetic. Thicker is not always better with oil, maybe gravy or BBQ sauce, but not oil.
Thin oil gets thrown up into the engine quicker, especially when starting the engine after it sits overnight. Starting the engine is when up to 70% of all engine wear occurs. An aircraft I flew has an electric system that pressurizes the oil in the engine before starting, to reduce engine wear and possible engine damage.
10-13-2011, 05:21 PM
#15
Junior Member
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I run 5w30 valvoline synblend with a quart of lucas in my 98. It has 154,000 miles and when started cold, even when I put 5w20 in it when I first bought it, it sounds like possible piston slap. Its not very bad, but annoys me and always makes me wonder if I should switch to a different oil, full synthetic, or anything to get ride of the noice. Any input would be appricated!
10-13-2011, 06:55 PM
#16
Senior Member
I run 5w30 valvoline synblend with a quart of lucas in my 98. It has 154,000 miles and when started cold, even when I put 5w20 in it when I first bought it, it sounds like possible piston slap. Its not very bad, but annoys me and always makes me wonder if I should switch to a different oil, full synthetic, or anything to get ride of the noice. Any input would be appricated!
I would try 5 20 synthetic. It won't hurt, but it will definitely clean your engine and make it last longer. It is compatible with all oils, so you can add a quart of synthetic each time you need to add oil and see if that helps with the noise.
Don't add Lucas to synthetics, it defeats the purpose regardless of what Lucas says, and I really like Lucas products.
10-13-2011, 09:07 PM
#17
You wont find a better oil for the 5.4 than the Motorcraft 5W20 or maybe some Shell Rotella 5W40, but you don't want anything thicker than a 5W in these Mod motors or the cams and top end suffer on startup and result in noise... Also use a good quality oil filter (motorcraft or Purolators are cheap but very good) with a quality anti-drainback valve, this is VERY important in a ford Mod motor.
10-15-2011, 01:29 AM
#18
Member
high miles on 5.4.
Wow they need better "engineers".
1. There is no need for a "thicker" oil at higher mileages except to cover up problems. The systems are still made to operate at the proper viscosity at operating temp, wear or no wear.
2. There is no need to stay with one weight, but the proper weight should be used and stayed with.
3. I'll agree that a 10w30 will probably have better shear resistance than a 5w20 so it may have a little more "durability", but the notion that a "thicker" oil will help more on cold start up is preposterous. Viscosity and film strength are two separate things and the ability of flow is worse with a 10w than a 5w cold. The thinking that a thicker oil clings better is an old myth that companies like Lucas likes to throw around. Rotella is a good oil, but their thinking behind it in application is flawed.
I use quotes for "thicker" and such because I'm speaking in relative terms. Read here for all you ever wanted to know about oil from a reliable source.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/
1. There is no need for a "thicker" oil at higher mileages except to cover up problems. The systems are still made to operate at the proper viscosity at operating temp, wear or no wear.
2. There is no need to stay with one weight, but the proper weight should be used and stayed with.
3. I'll agree that a 10w30 will probably have better shear resistance than a 5w20 so it may have a little more "durability", but the notion that a "thicker" oil will help more on cold start up is preposterous. Viscosity and film strength are two separate things and the ability of flow is worse with a 10w than a 5w cold. The thinking that a thicker oil clings better is an old myth that companies like Lucas likes to throw around. Rotella is a good oil, but their thinking behind it in application is flawed.
I use quotes for "thicker" and such because I'm speaking in relative terms. Read here for all you ever wanted to know about oil from a reliable source.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/
My 98 has 222,353 miles on it as of today,,I know they recommend 5 w 20,and you may say it is masking a problem,but the fact is at 200 k plus there is going to be an amount of wear and the thinner oil is not going to provide enough protection for Cylinder walls or other critical parts.And I personally can attest that Mobil one in 5w20 is no good I have a car sitting in the yard now that spun a main bearing with only 90k miles on it and it had always had Mobil one 5 w 20 in it and serviced every 5000 miles.The reason the motor company's all started recommending 5 w 20 is because of emissions.And Fuel mileage.There is info out there now about these oils not even being the viscosity they say they are on the labels.I will tell you this I have had 3 Newer fords and all Triton's and they all did better when I switched them to full synthetics and either 10 w 30 or 5 w 30.And with 200 plus thousand miles on the one i drive and work every day and a F250 with 198k miles on it,.my choice is 10 w30 or 5w 30 depends on the season..Just my 2 cents..
10-15-2011, 10:04 AM
#19
My 98 has 222,353 miles on it as of today,,I know they recommend 5 w 20,and you may say it is masking a problem,but the fact is at 200 k plus there is going to be an amount of wear and the thinner oil is not going to provide enough protection for Cylinder walls or other critical parts.And I personally can attest that Mobil one in 5w20 is no good I have a car sitting in the yard now that spun a main bearing with only 90k miles on it and it had always had Mobil one 5 w 20 in it and serviced every 5000 miles.The reason the motor company's all started recommending 5 w 20 is because of emissions.And Fuel mileage.There is info out there now about these oils not even being the viscosity they say they are on the labels.I will tell you this I have had 3 Newer fords and all Triton's and they all did better when I switched them to full synthetics and either 10 w 30 or 5 w 30.And with 200 plus thousand miles on the one i drive and work every day and a F250 with 198k miles on it,.my choice is 10 w30 or 5w 30 depends on the season..Just my 2 cents..
10-16-2011, 08:23 AM
#20
Member
warmer indeed needs thicker oil..
I totally agree, higher mileage trucks will benefit from a slightly thicker oil especially if you live in a warmer climate and work the truck hard (ie towing) thicker oil will resist burn-off, have higher shear strengths, and perform better overall in these looser, worn engines. The only downfall would be cold starts (temps below 30*) That thicker oil is gonna take much longer to get up top to those cams and followers where these mod motors really need it...
