jprevat

iTrader: (1)

That's the exact video I was using to TS. Right about 8:45 is where my system deviates. In 4wd I should see no ground on the left terminal of the 2wd plug but I am getting a half lit bulb. I'm guessing it's just enough ground to keep it pulling vacuum. Both solenoid are within range for resistance as well, I think they were around 78 iirc.

Jbrew

Damn, so it is the module..unless you have a chaffed wire (short). That's a strange module error. Well, check the harness for short. Resistance and power bleed at the connector. There's a short somewhere, harness or module itself.

It's a weak one for sure, considering the test light was dim /or half lit, - and that's just like a short. But yea, enough to keep that solenoid energized.

Could be the switch as well, that might be a better place to start.

Why couldn't it be a solenoid or vac hose...would of made it easier ehh lol.

jprevat

iTrader: (1)

Honestly I would rather replace the shift fork again rather than chase a short. I have the floor shifter so no switch to short out... one less degree of separation between me and the gem.

I have to do get an oil change and brakes on my wife's car tomorrow then i can begin the chase.

Jbrew

Not I, with a small roll of wire you can by-pass the harness pretty quick. Uknow, --determine if there's anything to chase at all or if it is indeed the module itself. That wouldn't be too bad.

jprevat

iTrader: (1)

I hadn't thought about that yet. I will be giving that a shot before I dive too deep.

Jbrew

If it's the module it might be easier to use a cable vs the vac system. Probably the only occasion I would think about going that rout if it were me. As long as the GEM wasn't causing other problems.

Iduno, I've had great luck with the vac system and 4WD on the 98. Over a 1/4 million miles on that truck and everything is still original with the 4WD system. The ONLY problem I had once is the vac lines cracked between the battery and firewall.

What breaks the fork ears is the actuator not fully engaging. Haven't had that problem but others have. I think you posted your actuator was a little slow going into 4WD at one time. Yea that's not good and most likley when you problem started. Hopefully the 2wd solenoid being activated when it shouldn't be didn't screw the diaphragm up inside the actuator.....or worse, snap an ear off of the fork (plastic fork ears).

Well at least you can still use 4WD if needed. Just a PITA since you have to disconnect a solenoid to do so (the 2wd solenoid). Gives you more time to fix it anyway.

jprevat

iTrader: (1)

I spent the better part of the day chasing wires. I have no other avenue except to conclude that the gem is an issue. I either need to wire a manual switched ground for the 2wd solenoid or do a cable lock.

10thGenScab

Sorry to hear... for what it's worth, I vote for the cable lock. It takes some variables out of play going forward. I hope your GEM doesn't develop other issues. Is your windshield leaking at all?

jprevat

iTrader: (1)

As far as I can tell I have no leaks around my windshield or anywhere else really. I'm leaning cable lock too, if for no other reason except to simplify the process. I just need to make a bracket the will locate the handle near the shifter rather than by the hood release.

I'll let yall know how it goes as soon as I figure out which one to go with. It looks like various companies sell them under their individual brands at about the same price but i can't tell if anything is actually different between the kits.

jprevat

iTrader: (1)

Ok so it looks like their are some bad knockoffs out there. Zone sells the real deal so I guess Ill go with theirs.

I might try and fab up a mount to attach it to the transfer case stick since i have a manual transfer case. I think it would be nice to have the t-case and axle control right together.

Zone Posi-Lock