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4.6l long tube headers egr tube?

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Old 07-08-2016, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by ScrewThat
Big fu**in hammer? Lmao. My pacesetters were tighttttt. Tight enough that when I accelerate part of the header on the passenger side would contact the heat shield and tight enough that it was slightly touching where the starter mounted. But they fit. The only way around the contacting the heat shield would have to be poly or solid motor mounts. You could remedy the other contact point with a nice flat dimple. You're gonna have to lift the engine to get the passenger header in. Lift it, fish the header through, lower the engine then bolt up. It won't bolt up with the engine still raised up.

As far as egr goes. Are there enough similarities to use the entire 5.4 assembly on the 4.6? Not just the tube but everything. Not that it'll apply to me cause I'm going to be running a mustang intake and throttle body, I'd just like the info for knowledge's sake.
Lifting the engine must be a 4six thing. Some do some don't. The problem with the header on the passenger side not falling into place is very hard see. They contact the AC bracket just enough to keep it from falling into place. It's hard to ketch because your usually under the truck when it happens.

Yea just the front of the heat shields have to modified IF you use them. Headers run a little cooler along with the upstream O2's. I did away with them when I welded the sytem solid, needed the room. I wrapped them instead.

How are you getting the low end you need to move that truck with a Mustang intake and up ? You must be constantly on the power.
Old 07-08-2016, 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by ScrewThat
How'd it work? Did it ever give you any issues?
I haven't had any issues with mine since it was done. The 4.6l is really kinda tight on the passenger side because of the starter. I have the OBX long tubes so mine might fit a little different.
Old 07-08-2016, 10:51 PM
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Long tube headers are useless when there are cats choking them,
Old 07-09-2016, 01:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Jbrew
Lifting the engine must be a 4six thing. Some do some don't. The problem with the header on the passenger side not falling into place is very hard see. They contact the AC bracket just enough to keep it from falling into place. It's hard to ketch because your usually under the truck when it happens.

Yea just the front of the heat shields have to modified IF you use them. Headers run a little cooler along with the upstream O2's. I did away with them when I welded the sytem solid, needed the room. I wrapped them instead.

How are you getting the low end you need to move that truck with a Mustang intake and up ? You must be constantly on the power.
Yeah I can see how a 5.4 wouldn't need the engine lifted. I just couldn't get the correct angle with the engine mounted.

And yes they did run much cooler. Both the mustang I had and my truck had long tubes. They would fairly rough at initial start up due to the o2 heaters not running long enough. They would start and you could tell when the heaters turned off cause it'd hesitate and sputter if you just barely jabbed the throttle. It'd do this til the engine warmed up enough on its own. I could get a visual of this with the tuner because the short term fuel trims would be at .75 and jump to .68ish when you'd blip the throttle until it warmed up. I've been thinking of ways to fix that issue. Obviously I guess a tuner could fix that issue by adjusting how long the o2 heaters were on. But I read somewhere that you could use an o2 out of an older vehicle (6ohm vs 3ohm? I don't remember exactly) that were designed to have the heaters constantly on. Then just run a wire from the heaters to a wire that's on when the key is turned. I never tried it cause it sounds sketchy and not like a true fix. Idk could be wrong and it could solve all issues lol. I just figured a wrap and tune would remedy the problem.

As far as the low end goes, gears is my answer. It's not going to be a daily driver where I need low end power to haul gear around or anything. And I have a gas efficient and reliable car to drive on the regular. Basically if I run 4.56 gears on stock tires, it would be the equivalent of my mustang running 4.10 gears on their stock sized tires. Which is something the mustang guys do on the regular. That with some decent weight reduction (shooting for 2-400 pounds lighter than stock) and more power than stock (albeit at a higher rpm range) along with a 2500-3000rpm converter, I should be able to get the truck off the line at a decent if not respectable pace.
Old 07-09-2016, 02:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Jbrew

Lifting the engine must be a 4six thing. Some do some don't. The problem with the header on the passenger side not falling into place is very hard see. They contact the AC bracket just enough to keep it from falling into place. It's hard to ketch because your usually under the truck when it happens.

Yea just the front of the heat shields have to modified IF you use them. Headers run a little cooler along with the upstream O2's. I did away with them when I welded the sytem solid, needed the room. I wrapped them instead.

How are you getting the low end you need to move that truck with a Mustang intake and up ? You must be constantly on the power.
Off topic but figured you'd know brew.
Is there enough room for me to put my motor in with the long tubes on or will I need to put them on after its in the truck?
Old 07-09-2016, 02:45 AM
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Originally Posted by ScrewThat
As far as the low end goes, gears is my answer. It's not going to be a daily driver where I need low end power to haul gear around or anything. And I have a gas efficient and reliable car to drive on the regular. Basically if I run 4.56 gears on stock tires, it would be the equivalent of my mustang running 4.10 gears on their stock sized tires. Which is something the mustang guys do on the regular. That with some decent weight reduction (shooting for 2-400 pounds lighter than stock) and more power than stock (albeit at a higher rpm range) along with a 2500-3000rpm converter, I should be able to get the truck off the line at a decent if not respectable pace.
You just need to use smaller rims 15-16" to increase low end torque. Best example is E150 stock rims 15". It's easier to move heavy load with smaller rim and very fuel efficient.
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Old 07-09-2016, 02:47 AM
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Old 07-09-2016, 06:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Jackedup00
Off topic but figured you'd know brew.
Is there enough room for me to put my motor in with the long tubes on or will I need to put them on after its in the truck?
Yes, - use a load leveler on the hoist or chain fall if you can get a hold of one. Makes it much easier. Pacesetters are a little of a challenge that way. Since they are the longest LT's made.
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Old 07-09-2016, 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Jbrew

Yes, - use a load leveler on the hoist or chain fall if you can get a hold of one. Makes it much easier. Pacesetters are a little of a challenge that way. Since they are the longest LT's made.
Yeah I have pacesetters, it just doesn't look fun putting them on with the motor in the truck lol. Appreciate the info!
Old 07-09-2016, 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Jackedup00
Yeah I have pacesetters, it just doesn't look fun putting them on with the motor in the truck lol. Appreciate the info!
I can't say I've put a motor in this truck with the headers installed but I feel like if it's already out, it would be an incredible amount easier to install the engine with the headers already installed


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