soucthemoose

Hello all, recently after a series of bumps my front right wheel has intermittent very loud grinding and whirring. It continues for a moment and goes back to normal. At first I thought it was the wheel hub assembly going bad, but I needed a brake job so I decided to tackle that first. During teardown the hub assembly seemed firm and in place so we decided to see if the brakes were what was causing the problem. Put new rotors and pads on and the noise has still continued. I've been reading up/watching videos and now I feel like it could be a faulty vacuum line for the 4x4 to engage and disengage. My dilemma is not only what it could be, but how to attempt to target the cause of the noise. Any help is greatly appreciated, thanks.

soucthemoose

ps vehicle is a 2001 4x4 5.4 screw

w0lvez

Install a Brake Drag Reduction Clip/Spring. A bad brake pad can cause premature hub assembly wear especially if it's dragging.

When exactly do you hear the noise? Try placing a huge screwdriver handle on your ear and place the other end on the hub assembly and spin it without the brake pad. You can hear it when it's bad.

charliedyal

To eliminate the front axle engaging possibility, jack the truck up with both front tires off the ground. Turn the front drive shaft (While in 2wH) by hand and see if either tire spins. They should not if its disengaged. If they do, get rid of the foul able vacuum crap and get you a cable lock from USA Alloy for $130. Next, grab the tire in question at the 12 & 6 o'clock locations and push/pull it back and forth. If there is any movement you have a bad hub assembly. It may have felt tight with no load on it when you checked it initially, but its got to have some weight on it to be accurately tested. If all else checks out, install new hardware kits on your calipers and grease the caliper slide bolts. You only have to jack up the truck once to check all of this.

w0lvez

I think the CV Joint is bad. Inspect if the CV Boots are torn.

soucthemoose

Took care of this today, 2wd vac line had been burned through. Used a 5/32 male connector and did the trick. Also rear right e brake ended up being completely torn to shreds, cleared that out. Glad I didn't have to drop 100+ for a new wheel hub, thanks for the help everyone