2003 5.4L coolant leak and engine misfire
#11
Senior Member
Looks like the Radiator Oil Cooler is leaking ATF. Check while the gear selector is in Drive or Reverse. If your Cooling system is not holding pressure it will stay on open loop. Fuel to air mixture will be too rich. Here's how to verify if the Radiator Oil Cooler is leaking. Video Link: http://youtu.be/ytszhcqK_pg
#12
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Location: Midlothian, IL
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Ok, this morning I brought the truck into Ford. They hooked it up to the laptop and it showed #4 cylinder misfiring. All other cylinders looked good! He said it was most likely due to a coil. I bought a new coil and will swap it out wi #4 tonight after work. I'll let you guys know if that fixes the issue. Again, I really appreciate all the help!
#13
Mark
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you could of saved yourself some money and did what was suggested by JBREW...
#14
Senior Member
What color of Coolant is used in this vehicle? Green or Yellow?
Red ATF + Yellow Coolant = ORANGE
The PCM adjust Spark Timing and Fuel/Air Mixture based on Coolant Temp. Check the other Spark Plugs if they also fouled like #4.
Red ATF + Yellow Coolant = ORANGE
The PCM adjust Spark Timing and Fuel/Air Mixture based on Coolant Temp. Check the other Spark Plugs if they also fouled like #4.
#15
Senior Member
Thanks for the compliments and backing
Yea, once you get a certain amount of miles and under normal circumstances the coils will eventually begin to fail one by one. Once this begins, it best to swap in a new set of Motorcrafts (ONLY Motorcraft coils). Guys have saved quite a bit of cash using E bay or A mazon (I not sure Rock Auto can beat those two in price yet) for this. Old coil winding's (wound copper) will have shorted turns. Too many shorted turns adds up to low grade misfires, but before that they are down on performance and also effect economy. Swapping them all out at say, 150,000 or so maintains ignition integrity keeping the engine running at it's best. It doesn't make much sense taking them in every-time for diagnostics when you can put that 100 bucks or so towards a new complete set which run from 250-300 bucks online. Great investment since they'll go for 100,000 miles plus IF you purchase the Motorcraft set.
Yea, once you get a certain amount of miles and under normal circumstances the coils will eventually begin to fail one by one. Once this begins, it best to swap in a new set of Motorcrafts (ONLY Motorcraft coils). Guys have saved quite a bit of cash using E bay or A mazon (I not sure Rock Auto can beat those two in price yet) for this. Old coil winding's (wound copper) will have shorted turns. Too many shorted turns adds up to low grade misfires, but before that they are down on performance and also effect economy. Swapping them all out at say, 150,000 or so maintains ignition integrity keeping the engine running at it's best. It doesn't make much sense taking them in every-time for diagnostics when you can put that 100 bucks or so towards a new complete set which run from 250-300 bucks online. Great investment since they'll go for 100,000 miles plus IF you purchase the Motorcraft set.
#17
Mark
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#18
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#19
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I brought it in to the dealership because I know the mechanic well enough that he didn't charge me to give a quick diagnostic test on the truck. I bought a motorcraft coil for $50. I'll replace the rest with motorcraft coils as I can. The coolant I used was gold. I used 2 gallons of coolant and 2 gallons of distilled water. So far, so good. I'll have the coil in tonight. I'll report back afterward and let you guys know how it turned out. You guys ROCK!!!
#20
Senior Member
Yea, it is rust, corrosion anyway. Some of it comes from the iron block, some from inhibitor breakdown, electrolysis, iron in the water.....it will eat components from the inside out. Most of the corrosion won't float, it'll settle. You only see a lot of crap when it gets very very bad lol. It'll wedge into the the heater core and radiator throughout internally and rot it away.
Suppose to swap it out every 3 years w/50/50 to be the safest and you should never see that problem. Also check your grounding/electrolysis. There's better explanations out there......here, -
http://www.aa1car.com/library/coolin..._corrosion.htm
Suppose to swap it out every 3 years w/50/50 to be the safest and you should never see that problem. Also check your grounding/electrolysis. There's better explanations out there......here, -
http://www.aa1car.com/library/coolin..._corrosion.htm