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I am still hoping it was just the filter. But I'm happy to have the truck home. I've never before had a major breakdown far from home that turned out this well. Local forums and the offroad community are very helpful. And some folks are just more helpful than others. You can bet, I will do something nice for someone that needs it too.
As for time... I have more time than money. But I also have a bad knee that keeps me from finishing things. I busted my butt the last couple days, but today was a slug. My knee is killing me. Between my work schedule and insurance approval, I hope to have my knee replacement early October...
The truck ran fine until 18 months ago and ticking got bad. Not consistant, nor under the same conditions. But it DOES go away. Quick catch up. Months after my original post, I had my knee replaced, and all has been excellent. I suggest never fear replacement... I was getting myself in shape after the replacement, pushed every limit I could...
Jumped off the ATV 7 months after replacement JUST TO SEE HOW IT FELT...
Crashed my bicycle 2 months later, breaking my back and neck and suffering a massive concussion. Plenty of new hardware to keep me upright and lots of physical therapy, and I'm doing pretty good...
Anyway, we used the S'Crew extensively and it behaved most of the time. 18 months ago, I parked it and haven't had a chance to get back to it. My Jeep and my Neon got me where I needed to be, my wife has been in and out of hospitals and rest homes and isn't currently driving (she hates my Neon). I recently had a need to tow a bit heavier trailer than I like with my Jeep. It did the job but I would have liked more power and stopping...
So, I want to get the savage beastie rolling again. So my first question is the same as before. Can I pull the oil pan without lifting the engine from its mounts? And, where is a good place to tap for true oil pressure since that stupid gauge isn't even a decent idiot light. I'm going to ask a third question. Has anyone used a sludge treatment product called "AutoRX"?
But first it needs a new battery and cables, the terminals have rotted pretty bad. Yea. Never ends!
Are you sure the oil light and check engine light are coming on before the truck dies?
What i'm getting at is, if the truck just dies going down the road. The oil light and check engine lights come on. Because the engine is not running: No oil pressure.
If the gauge is the same or anything like the ones in the mustangs where it is tapped in is fine it's they way it's configured. In the mustangs I had the needle would only go down if pressure got below 6psi I believe and then go up if it was about 6 psi. Get yourself a real gauge and just run it from where the stock gauge runs from.
You could replace the sending unit since they are cheap and hope it fixes it.
I would get under the truck and look at the sending unit and see if there is oil on it. If there is it could be the cause of your pressure gauge fluctuating.
The "gauge" only drops when the pressure goes below 8psi. Still think I have something in the pan clogging the oil pickup now and again. So again my question, can the oilpan be dropped without lifting the engine. I'd rather not break the gasket or sealant only to find I can't wrangle the oilpan past the crossmember and transmission. I want to see whats in the pan.
After the original incident, it never died again. I wasn't getting a check engine light and never felt any power loss. But I definitely have an oiling issue.
Reviving this thread... Life got in the way. As usual. I hate to say, but I developed an attitude of "if it does, it dies". So I drove it hard till the noises became too frequent. I'm still certain there is a sometimes blockage of the oil pickup screen.
So I bought a 2001 5.4 from a rear ended F350... 4 years ago...
Last year I started ordering parts and setting aside funds...
Started tearing into the 2001 engine the other day. I had looked at the cams and valve train when I bought it, and liked what I saw.
I decided to replace some hard parts before swapping engines. Timing chain and gear set. Oil and water pumps. Lifters. Got a bunch of seals and gaskets.
I was pleasantly surprised to see the valley relatively clean and oil free. Some road dirt and such. To be expected, it was a work truck. I gave a quick wire brushing to remove some stubborn grime at the intake flanges. But that was all. Brushed off, then vacuumed the debris...
So next is to pull the plugs, use a bore scope to look in the cylinders. Then flip it over, pull the oil pan and look at the underside of the cylinder walls. Then pull a couple main and rod bearing caps, inspect and plasigage them.
Then start swapping parts.
Beginning to miss the truck...
And getting tired of seeing it sit. Bought it new in Sept of 2002... It owes me nothing. But I obviously tend to keep things when I like them. My 03 Neon, bought new has 230,000 miles, still fun to drive. Bought the Grand Cherokee used 13 years ago... And the newcomer 2013 Journey I picked up nearly 2 years ago...
I had a couple questions with respect to the differences between the 150 and 350 versions of this engine. I already resolved questions of throttle bodies and intake manifolds. But have a question about the oil filter location. Can I use the F350 oil filter adapter with my 02 Supeecrew 4x2? Or swap over the one from my original engine? I intend to run a dual remote filter setup. To make filter replacement easier and add just a bit more oil capacity...
Next question. Is there an oil pressure sending unit that works with the existing instrument cluster that shows oil pressure? Or should I plan on adding an oil pressure gauge in the cab? Will oil pressure show on OBD2? I can use the app "Torque" on my phone with my bluetooth OBD2 reader.
08-15-2010, 11:55 PM
