Shindog

Guys, So I had this lift installed from a local suspension shop here in Houston and he said it was for a 2001 Ford F150 and would bolt right up. We added some camber kits (adjusters) and all seemed to go well however since this kit was installed I have broken 2 ball joints within 3 years and I SELDOM drive this truck (Maybe 8000 miles a year because I have a company truck. Both times I installed all new ball joints to eliminate the possibility of a week link. I used Moog HD and still broke another lower ball joint. Both times they broke I was either pulling into a parking spot with the wheel cranked as far as it would go or in this last case I was backing out with wheel cranked to the right. Another thing I noticed is when I turn the wheels (not even hard) to either right or left the tires bind,chirp and acts like they are binding up like you would experience when truck is in 4X4 and your turning on pavement and the OUTER edges of the tires are wearing faster.
The shop tells me there is nothing wrong. I disagree. Im afraid Ill break another one and do more damage. The link below is the kit I have installed. I can post pictures if anyone would like. Please give me your feedback and help me figure out what is going on here.
PS: Last time one broke it was the lower and it pulled the drive shaft out of the transfer case and i had to buy a new CV shaft and split the case to reinstall the clip that hold the shaft. I sure dont want to do that again.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/e...rd/model/f-150

2001 5.4 4x4 Screw with 295x18 Pro-comp x terrains, Pro comp shocks

the01kingranch

Post pics of loaded suspension angles. So whit the truck on the ground turn the wheels to full lock and take a pic of the cv angle and ball joint angles

Shindog

Truck is at a suspension shop now trying to figure this out (no luck so far) Ill be picking it up Monday and will get some pictures.
BTW. this local suspension shop is trying to tell me there is to much travel and they want to weld new bump stops on the frame so upper a-arm is limited. I dont think this is the problem or if it is its not the right fix. Both times I broke ball joints I was just turning into or out of a parking spot and I never go off road with it.

Shindog

Bringing this back to the top with pictures. If anyone can see an issue with this set up please let me know. I'm on my 3rd set of ball joints and tires are wearing bad. I need to figure this out or ditch the lift kit which will mean new tires unless I crank the T-bars and I hear the ride sux when you do that so probably wont go that route.

Red-Ford

I'm no professional here, just throwing words out there but it almost looks like your steering knuckle is too big. I had a 5" lift on my old '97 scab and the upper ball joints had to come down to the knuckle instead of going straight across if that makes sense. Other than that, the CV's are at good angles and everything else to me looks normal, it just appears that the knuckle is too long.

I'll see if I can pull up some pictures of how mine was, but I'd get someone elses opinion on this before you start replacing the knuckle lol.


EDIT:
I can't find a good picture, but I've been thinking about it a little more. I cranked my T-bars so the truck sat level with the F-250 springs so I would imagine that's why my upper control arms were angled down. HOWEVER, one thing I'd like to know is what is the measurement from the center of the hub to the fender? Also did your lift come with new steering knuckles? If your lift came with new steering knuckles, it is critical to get that angle as close to stock as you can. What I am thinking is when you did the lift, the T-bars were not cranked enough to get the full 4" of lift in the front so your ball joints are at a bad angle. With just a 4" lift I think you should be at 27"-28.25" from the center of the hub to the fender (don't quote me on the first number, the second number is max but I'd be shooting for 27" if the truck is lower than that).

02_Black_On_White

No these Cv angles are NOT GOOD. They are angled up on the tire side like your control arms are. It almost looks like you have absolutely zero preload on the tbars...... No wonder your breaking ball joints... The cv's should only be slightly angled down. This is not correct.


Edit: yup, I'm convinced they didn't load the tbars. Get to cranking OP. You need to get those angles either dead flat or ever so slightly down. Your actually doing more damage to the joints binding them up the way it is

Heavy_Metal

Would it help if i got some pics of mine? Ive got a Trailmaster 4". I havent had any problems with it (knocks on wood) yet. Ive only had her for a little more than a year so im not aware of her maintenance history.

Heavy_Metal

Oh, and im running 325/60r18. Terra grapplers.

Shindog

This is some good input guys. Ill tell you that the 4" lift should have come with Pro Comp steering knuckles but Im thinking the guy either didn't install them or there the wrong ones. I had this lift done 4 years ago. (yea, I don't drive the truck much) but if I remember correctly he cranked the T-bars in addition to the lift. I did back them off a bit thinking maybe they were cranked to much and this is why I was breaking ball joints. Maybe that wasn't the right thing to do huh Black on Black? Anyway, a few more pictures and a couple of corrections to my original post.... I have 295/70/17 Nitto Terra Grapplers and they are wearing on the INSIDE not the outside. Both times the ball joints broke they were the bottom and I replaced both sides. Take a look at these pictures and tell me what you think about the T-bars. I agree, the control arms are angled up slightly as are the CV joints. Is there a way to tell if these are stock knuckles? Thanks again for all your input fellas! I've had it to 2 suspension shops and they both say they cant find anything wrong.

Shindog

More pics