SALT61

Rained all day and I do not have a garage so didn't get to the swap. I did get the plugs,Motorcraft of course, an extended swivel spark plug socket, dielectric grease, anti seize and a can of spray Seafoam. I did watch a few videos on spark plug replacement and they have me a bit scared about the breaking the plug issue. Two talked about making sure to work on a hot engine to expand the aluminum heads, one showed sparying some brake cleaner and letting is soak/evaporate and then working the plug back and forth until it loosens. What is the general consensus here?

This evening when it dried out a bit I removed the misfire code, added a full bottle of seafoam to the 1/4 tank I have left and then did the fog, soak drive thing. The Service Engine Soon light came on after just driving around the neighborhood a bit, up a few hills, and then when I got out on the highway and was running 70+ I did get the flashing Service Engine Soon light but by the time I pulled over and sat in the parking lot it was back to solid. It did not flash at all on the way home.

I also did rent the compression tester tool. I figure since I am going to be pulling the plugs in 1 and 3 that I might as well test them.

I hope to start bright and early in the AM.

Wish me luck on no broken plugs.

white89gt

Breaking plugs is not an issue on the 2V, it is an issue on the 3V. Seeing as how yours is a 2V, you should be fine unless you get nutty.

Anti-seize.... not recommended on these 2V's. Torque the plugs to 28 ft. lbs. dry. The anti-seize will make them easier to blow out, which IS a 2V issue.

SALT61

Hope IM not jinxing myself but when I went to take out the plug from cylinder number 3 it was not tight at all. I was able to loosen with just the socket in my fingers. So I did still put new plugs in 1 and 3, switched coils. I did check voltage on coil and fuel injection connectors and all were at 12v. I checked ohms on coils both primary and secondary and they were at spec. Since I was right there I went ahead and changed the plug on number 2. Put it back together and took on a test run so far no misfire codes. Runs much better/stronger. So could the problem have been just a loose plug? I will change the rest of them tomorrow and follow up. Oh BTW, I did try to check compression but I couldn't get the rental tool to thread into the cylinder. I will try again when I do the rest of the plugs. I sure hope it was just the loose plug. Will post again tomorrow after I finish.

white89gt

Yes it could have been. That is a reason why anti-seize is not recommended on these heads. Install DRY and to 28 ft pounds.

R&TBabich

The rental compression tester just may not fit all the way down into the plug wells.
My older compression testers won't fit down in the newer design deep wells.
The plug may have had a crack in the insulator, but since it was replaced won't know.
I use anti seize all the time, never had a problem.
Leaving the plugs in for 100k with an initial torque of 15 ft/lbs allows the plugs to work loose.

SALT61

Well from what I can tell it seems that the loose spark plug was the cause for the Misfire code registration. I did change out all the spark plugs and they all looked worn. Now the bad news. When I pulled the plugs in 7 and 8 there was oil in the spark plug well. Looks like I must have a leaky valve cover gasket. Oh well what do I want from a 17 year old truck. At least now is is running good, lots more power.

Thanks again for all the help.