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No you don't use that gasket, just the dorman O rings. Make sure you get the area cleaned up. Mine had had a lot of oil blowback from the old PCV valve and was pretty messy.
I got the manifold off. There is a long metalized gasket under it and the new dorman doesn't have this. Do I need it?
The aluminum gaskets are for aluminum manifolds. These are one time gaskets. BUT, you have a plastic composite manifold if you have a 2000 model. The only metal gasket you should have will be between the EGR. I take it your referring to the gasket between the plenum and manifold correct? Which is a oval metal gasket. Yea, you shouldn't have one of those unless you have a 99 model year.
AFAIK none of the composite manifolds use them that I'm aware of.
It's like Aragorn has posted, use the Dorman stuff.
So yeah, like Aragorn and I said, roll with the Dorman stuff.
So yea yea, it's like what Aragorn and WHITE said. Sorry I left you out of my last White lol.
Make sure you stage torque that manifold or there's a good chance for a do-over...that's a must! Do you have directions ? Follow the torquing procedure perfectly, literally.
So yea yea, it's like what Aragorn and WHITE said. Sorry I left you out of my last White lol.
Make sure you stage torque that manifold or there's a good chance for a do-over...that's a must! Do you have directions ? Follow the torquing procedure perfectly, literally.
Yes I have the instructions and I see that I need to torque in 2 stages.
Yea without good direction and following to a T you won't be successful. To the point you'll start right out with a leaky manifold from get go. Not realizing it untill it gets worse..and it will slowly get worse.
The most critical methods that have to be done...no buts about it, -
1. Stuff all cylinder ports with a rag.
2. Emery the heads lightly. You don't have to use emery cloth, give them a light sanding with say 320/400 grit. I use a palm sander myself to hit the heads real quick.
3. Shop vac the heads and ports before pulling the rags.
4. Wipe the heads with medium vap lacquer thinner or comparable grease cutting adjacent. Pull the rags, wipe again with lacquer thinner.
5. From point DO NOT touch the head surfaces. A finger print could screw up the seal.
6. Lay the gaskets out carefully making sure they are positioned correctly, -locating pins and all.
7. Mount the intake carefully and as evenly as you can.
8. Stage torque the new manifold. Service requires 2 stages, but do it in 3 just to be sure it torques down as evenly as possible. NEVER over torque the manifold.
Yea, it has to done correctly, it's very easy to get a leak. A manifold R&R is one of the most critical procedures on a vehicle.
Yes I have the instructions and I see that I need to torque in 2 stages.
Okay, that's great! You take a big chance without a torque wrench. It's worth borrowing one if need be. Torque is light and difficult to judge. Up to you.
My POS Harbor Freight torque wrench doesn't click below 25 foot pounds, so I used my old school Craftsman to do it. I don't think I paid much more than 30 dollars for it.
11-01-2017, 08:41 AM
