10th gen gurus diagnosis this clunk
#11
Senior Member
If you have a solid aluminum, I don't think it applies. Two piece yes.
#12
Senior Member
This is the exact stuff Ford recommends for the splines.
#13
Senior Member
It sounds like your coupler in the Transfer Case has excessive play and the popping sound is normal with older BW4406 and some ND's in earlier years. The 4R100 has a center support that gets very noisy and can have your very description also. E40D's were very bad at the center support doing this. What transmission is in your truck? 4R70's are old AOD's so, they have a different center support, thus less clunk when older.
#14
Senior Member
^^^ That reminds me, check the trans mount. If bad, the trans WILL sink 1/2-3/4" until it's metal to metal. The bushing material deteriorates until there's nothing left. Nothing but a rubber type flap. You'll know what I mean if that's the case and upon inspection. Mine was totally gone at 155,000 miles.
When they go, you get more drive-line vibration of course and the drive-line is know longer true/straight. Definitely could cause the issue your having.
I think that's part of what AK is referring too.
BTW- I documented that way back when, have pictures if needed.
When they go, you get more drive-line vibration of course and the drive-line is know longer true/straight. Definitely could cause the issue your having.
I think that's part of what AK is referring too.
BTW- I documented that way back when, have pictures if needed.
Last edited by Jbrew; 05-13-2016 at 02:15 PM.
#15
Senior Member
^^^ That reminds me, check the trans mount. If bad, the trans WILL sink 1/2-3/4" until it's metal to metal. The bushing material deteriorates until there's nothing left. Nothing but a rubber type flap. You'll know what I mean if that's the case and upon inspection. Mine was totally gone at 155,000 miles.
When they go, you get more drive-line vibration of course and the drive-line is know longer true/straight. Definitely could cause the issue your having.
I think that's part of what AK is referring too.
BTW- I documented that way back when, have pictures if needed.
When they go, you get more drive-line vibration of course and the drive-line is know longer true/straight. Definitely could cause the issue your having.
I think that's part of what AK is referring too.
BTW- I documented that way back when, have pictures if needed.
I was actually talking about the internal center support in the 4R100 vs the 4r70. The upshift to OD is very distinctive if it has a bad c/s.
Since the OP's description is when he applies the gas, I'd think the internal coupler or the chain could be stretched in the t/case and those would cause this. 4406 is a good t/case though, and have no more or less problems than any others. What I don't get is why the transmission shop couldn't isolate the problem. Just wondering out loud.
Last edited by akdoggie; 05-13-2016 at 02:50 PM.
#16
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Truck is an 03 with a 4r70w. Looking at the t case. It's a little weepy, but doesn't leave a drop anywhere. Here's the trans crossmember as well. Are there good rebuild kits for this transfer case? I can get used ones all day for $150 but I'm tired of used parts on my truck that will only fail weeks later.
#17
Senior Member
Usually it is just the chain, some anerobic sealer, a couple seals, and if necessary, the fork plastic pads. Unless something is actually broken, there isn't much to replace when rebuilding. Putting new metal gears seems to me, to be a waste of money, unless they show wear or damage. Otherwise, why throw away good money for something that really doesn't wear out very often. When replacing the chain, get a good one, not a Chinese cheapo. They do stretch quite easily, so stay away from them.
Permatex makes the anerobic sealer (gasket eliminator) and as seals go, get good ones, so you don't have leaks later. Check the riding surface for the seals and make sure they don't have any grooves cut into them. If so, use a speedi-sleeve and fix the surface so the seal doesn't go out quickly.
Permatex makes the anerobic sealer (gasket eliminator) and as seals go, get good ones, so you don't have leaks later. Check the riding surface for the seals and make sure they don't have any grooves cut into them. If so, use a speedi-sleeve and fix the surface so the seal doesn't go out quickly.
#19
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Usually it is just the chain, some anerobic sealer, a couple seals, and if necessary, the fork plastic pads. Unless something is actually broken, there isn't much to replace when rebuilding. Putting new metal gears seems to me, to be a waste of money, unless they show wear or damage. Otherwise, why throw away good money for something that really doesn't wear out very often. When replacing the chain, get a good one, not a Chinese cheapo. They do stretch quite easily, so stay away from them. Permatex makes the anerobic sealer (gasket eliminator) and as seals go, get good ones, so you don't have leaks later. Check the riding surface for the seals and make sure they don't have any grooves cut into them. If so, use a speedi-sleeve and fix the surface so the seal doesn't go out quickly.
Mine isn't terrible now though
Find me one at that price
#20
Senior Member
I also have that weird clunk before. Try Neutralizing the Engine & Transmission mounts by raising the vehicle and loosen all the fasteners without removing them. Lower it and move the vehicle forward and reverse 2-4 feet. Raise then Tighen all the fasterner to the specified torque.