Topic Sponsor
1997 - 2003 Ford F150 General discussion on the Ford 1997 - 2003 F150 truck.

10th gen gurus diagnosis this clunk

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 05-13-2016, 01:15 PM
  #11  
Senior Member
 
Jbrew's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: MI
Posts: 25,212
Received 5,550 Likes on 4,627 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by jferg92
Teflon grease throughout the length of the splines correct?

I'll check with the driveline shop as they were the last to remove it and it is slightly worse since it got back from the regear
Correct, - it should be cleaned and dry, no contaminates, then a thin coat of the grease. Too much grease may effect movement. The way I understand it, over greasing can form into a wall blocking pressure release thus preventing full movement as the shaft moves forward on the spline.

If you have a solid aluminum, I don't think it applies. Two piece yes.
Old 05-13-2016, 01:43 PM
  #12  
Senior Member
 
white89gt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Utah
Posts: 20,177
Received 6,474 Likes on 4,611 Posts

Default

This is the exact stuff Ford recommends for the splines.

Amazon.com: Genuine Ford Fluid XG-8 PTFE Lubricant - 3 oz.: Automotive Amazon.com: Genuine Ford Fluid XG-8 PTFE Lubricant - 3 oz.: Automotive
Old 05-13-2016, 01:55 PM
  #13  
Senior Member
 
akdoggie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Alaska
Posts: 8,510
Received 2,508 Likes on 1,818 Posts

Default

It sounds like your coupler in the Transfer Case has excessive play and the popping sound is normal with older BW4406 and some ND's in earlier years. The 4R100 has a center support that gets very noisy and can have your very description also. E40D's were very bad at the center support doing this. What transmission is in your truck? 4R70's are old AOD's so, they have a different center support, thus less clunk when older.
Old 05-13-2016, 02:12 PM
  #14  
Senior Member
 
Jbrew's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: MI
Posts: 25,212
Received 5,550 Likes on 4,627 Posts

Default

^^^ That reminds me, check the trans mount. If bad, the trans WILL sink 1/2-3/4" until it's metal to metal. The bushing material deteriorates until there's nothing left. Nothing but a rubber type flap. You'll know what I mean if that's the case and upon inspection. Mine was totally gone at 155,000 miles.

When they go, you get more drive-line vibration of course and the drive-line is know longer true/straight. Definitely could cause the issue your having.

I think that's part of what AK is referring too.

BTW- I documented that way back when, have pictures if needed.

Last edited by Jbrew; 05-13-2016 at 02:15 PM.
Old 05-13-2016, 02:47 PM
  #15  
Senior Member
 
akdoggie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Alaska
Posts: 8,510
Received 2,508 Likes on 1,818 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Jbrew
^^^ That reminds me, check the trans mount. If bad, the trans WILL sink 1/2-3/4" until it's metal to metal. The bushing material deteriorates until there's nothing left. Nothing but a rubber type flap. You'll know what I mean if that's the case and upon inspection. Mine was totally gone at 155,000 miles.

When they go, you get more drive-line vibration of course and the drive-line is know longer true/straight. Definitely could cause the issue your having.

I think that's part of what AK is referring too.

BTW- I documented that way back when, have pictures if needed.
I agree that the exterior mounts have problems with certain Ford trucks. Weather, road conditions, etc all add to their destruction.

I was actually talking about the internal center support in the 4R100 vs the 4r70. The upshift to OD is very distinctive if it has a bad c/s.

Since the OP's description is when he applies the gas, I'd think the internal coupler or the chain could be stretched in the t/case and those would cause this. 4406 is a good t/case though, and have no more or less problems than any others. What I don't get is why the transmission shop couldn't isolate the problem. Just wondering out loud.

Last edited by akdoggie; 05-13-2016 at 02:50 PM.
Old 05-13-2016, 06:01 PM
  #16  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
jferg92's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 10,731
Received 171 Likes on 162 Posts

Default

Truck is an 03 with a 4r70w. Looking at the t case. It's a little weepy, but doesn't leave a drop anywhere. Here's the trans crossmember as well. Are there good rebuild kits for this transfer case? I can get used ones all day for $150 but I'm tired of used parts on my truck that will only fail weeks later.
Attached Thumbnails 10th gen gurus diagnosis this clunk-image-2248630130.jpg   10th gen gurus diagnosis this clunk-image-454984169.jpg   10th gen gurus diagnosis this clunk-image-2879754322.jpg   10th gen gurus diagnosis this clunk-image-430666554.jpg  
Old 05-14-2016, 02:22 AM
  #17  
Senior Member
 
akdoggie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Alaska
Posts: 8,510
Received 2,508 Likes on 1,818 Posts

Default

Usually it is just the chain, some anerobic sealer, a couple seals, and if necessary, the fork plastic pads. Unless something is actually broken, there isn't much to replace when rebuilding. Putting new metal gears seems to me, to be a waste of money, unless they show wear or damage. Otherwise, why throw away good money for something that really doesn't wear out very often. When replacing the chain, get a good one, not a Chinese cheapo. They do stretch quite easily, so stay away from them.

Permatex makes the anerobic sealer (gasket eliminator) and as seals go, get good ones, so you don't have leaks later. Check the riding surface for the seals and make sure they don't have any grooves cut into them. If so, use a speedi-sleeve and fix the surface so the seal doesn't go out quickly.
Old 05-14-2016, 03:12 PM
  #18  
Senior Member
 
Carcrazygts2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 7,381
Received 434 Likes on 419 Posts

Default

I purchased a rebuilt unit manual unit for replacement for my 97 off ebay for $475 shipped. Fixed my clunking issues, but still have a damn trans code.. Arg!
Old 05-14-2016, 05:53 PM
  #19  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
jferg92's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 10,731
Received 171 Likes on 162 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by akdoggie
Usually it is just the chain, some anerobic sealer, a couple seals, and if necessary, the fork plastic pads. Unless something is actually broken, there isn't much to replace when rebuilding. Putting new metal gears seems to me, to be a waste of money, unless they show wear or damage. Otherwise, why throw away good money for something that really doesn't wear out very often. When replacing the chain, get a good one, not a Chinese cheapo. They do stretch quite easily, so stay away from them. Permatex makes the anerobic sealer (gasket eliminator) and as seals go, get good ones, so you don't have leaks later. Check the riding surface for the seals and make sure they don't have any grooves cut into them. If so, use a speedi-sleeve and fix the surface so the seal doesn't go out quickly.
I can't afford much down time which is why I'm thinking just swapping it with a new one. I'm tired of fixing old junk and swapping with used parts.
Mine isn't terrible now though
Originally Posted by Carcrazygts2
I purchased a rebuilt unit manual unit for replacement for my 97 off ebay for $475 shipped. Fixed my clunking issues, but still have a damn trans code.. Arg!
Find me one at that price
Old 05-15-2016, 10:47 AM
  #20  
Senior Member
 
w0lvez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Behind You
Posts: 1,267
Received 85 Likes on 83 Posts
Default

I also have that weird clunk before. Try Neutralizing the Engine & Transmission mounts by raising the vehicle and loosen all the fasteners without removing them. Lower it and move the vehicle forward and reverse 2-4 feet. Raise then Tighen all the fasterner to the specified torque.


Quick Reply: 10th gen gurus diagnosis this clunk



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:46 AM.