'03 5.4 recurring TPS light
 

On the way out of town a couple of weeks ago got a check engine light for the TPS. Replaced it from autozone, ran it for one day, and the next day I got the same error code.
Looked up the nearest autozone and returned it, bought the better one, at least the more expensive one, and installed it.

Went for 2 days and same code. My wife is still with the truck visiting the kids, I'm back home for now. She says she gets the same code every 2 or 3 days and has to reset it.

I'm going to go get her and drive home a couple thousand miles next week, but what does it sound like my problem is?
1. Any chance I got two bad TPS in a row?
2. Maybe it's loose?
3. What else might give me that code?
4. Does my truck hate my wife (as she believes)?

She says when she resets the CEL with my reader, it runs good for a day or two or three, but will start to miss and not shift gears and then the light will come back on eventually.

Yep, that's what happens when the TPS goes south. Actually I've read it may downshift on yuh at highway speeds, - which could be a bad thing.

Check your blade connector for cleanliness, break or push-back. Also look for a bend in the wire. Check continuity before and after the bend. When you do this, move the wire around a bit and look for resistance to fluctuate. These wires tend to separate inside the insulation at times.

The TPS. If nothing else, purchase only the MOTORCRAFT brand sensor. I believe O'Riely's stocks Motorcraft, -if not get one from the dealership.

Yes, you can get two bad TPS's in a row. Off- brands aren't always up to spec.

Once the wife outsmarts the problem, that should be a respect gainer.. on the trucks behalf anyway. :wink:

I'll definitely have to examine the wiring first, thanks.

I prob should have gone motorcraft but since I didn't I'll try one more time to replace this one at AZ if the wires look good, and see if it gets better.
I saw a thread about someone changing their phillips screws out, I think I'll do that too.... maybe add a touch of locktite like the factory did.

Yea, the best and at times ONLY way to remove those type screws in with a battery impact. They seem to lock themselves in there don't they lol.

I replace them with COP bolts (7mm heads), - just don't over torque them. With those, use Locktite Blue. Not the Permatex stuff. Use the good stuff, -it's cheap anyway. Locktite Quickstix blue or red.

Right, check continuity. Use a multi meter and sewing needle or pin. Those wires like sever inside the insulation and at the bends. Hard to detect at times because you can't see the damage and it's intermittent problem when then separate. They make contact, then they don't...off and on.

Could very well be the sensor itself, that happens often with off brand electrical components.