KustomFX

iTrader: (3)

Tip:
For anyone running the Carling switches and complain of the LED's being too bright...
Today, I spoke with Jim from OTRATTW and a dimmer from "autometer" is the only one he recommends and states it will not harm the LED's of the Carling switches.
So, if you want to dim your switch LED's, here's the item that he recommends:
(Can be found locally at your parts stores, off road shop, eBay or Amazon as well).

13f150plat

iTrader: (1)

can you please send me a paypal request (empire-states@hotmail.com) for the OTRATTW 6 panel ,
thank you in advance!

KustomFX

iTrader: (3)

Invoice sent, thanks brother!

13f150plat

iTrader: (1)

thanks
paid


I was going to get the one that they make for the switches but id prefer to support someone on here and local to boot (well ny to pa, kindda local)


where did you get the grey cased wire that you used
looks a heck a lot thinner to route and run around the truck then individual 12/14 guage (x6-10 strands)


thanks again
looking fwd to getting it, it will motivate me to actually buy the switches now lol

KustomFX

iTrader: (3)

Payment received, thanks!
I appreciate the support!

It will ship out today to you & you'll get your tracking number when I print the shipping label.

The grey "cable" that you see is cable that I can get from my work cheap.
I have not really advertised the cable yet due to the various gauge size that some prefer or a different way that some would want.... Kinda pondering on how to sell & advertise.
That cable is 22 gauge. And just like you mentioned, you may want or prefer a 12 or 14 gauge wire.....

But as long as you run a relay with your accessories, (most of us are using for lighting), and you use the relay harness from your light kit (from Rigid, PIAA, KC, etc), OR if you buy your seperate LED light bar or cube lights, make sure to ALWAYS use a relay and build your own wiring harness....

22 gauge wire is plenty sufficient to power/trigger from your switch to your relay. Your relay (internal coil & contacts) is what will take the amps, NOT your switch.
But I have an 8 conductor cable, that I cut 2 of the conductors to make a 6 conductor cable, that I run to 2 switches of the original switch plate and switches I sell.

With that said, I realize that the Carling switches can need more conductors depending on how one may want to wire their switch. so I'm seeing what I can do to accommodate the switches I sell, and also the Carling switches. And then I may advertise the cable/wire as an option to sell & make it easier to for a customers install.

Also note the one pic of the PIAA switch that also uses 22ga wire.
Again a relay MUST be used! Plus it's smarter & safer.

Email me if your interested in what I currently have before I ship out your package this morning & I'll get you fixed up!

Pics: of the cable & installed

alpinestar1123

I went to lowes and got 12ft of 18ga/10 for 10$.

Lethal Weapon

Awesome!
6-' 6 1/2' is good length to run from the middle of the headliner, down the A-pillar and still have extra at the dash opening to comfortably splice & tap into at that area.
So, 10 conductor will be able to power 2 Carling type switches.... So it would be approx $20 to do a 4 switch panel and $30 to do a 6 switch panel, correct?

I'll see what I can do to get similar cable to offer as an option & hopefully help all with a good price.
Good find & that definitely helps out!
Thanks brother!

alpinestar1123

Yea the roll I pulled from was like 100$ for 500ft roll I get the contractor discount so that's why it's a little cheaper for me. It's solid copper not the braided wire. And it's pretty rigid and stays in shape. I remember you said you had wire I was going to purchase some from you but then I had a brain fart and forgot

Lethal Weapon

Ah, gotcha.
Yea, I'm working on getting a cable to accommodate both the original switch plate & switches which requires only 3 conductor to them:
-Power in
-Power out
-Ground

But the Carling will also require another wire for the 2 different LED's depending on how one wants to run them. (Can actually use one wire to connect all of them, but if one chooses to independently it may need one more). So looking at that right now.

Now... With that said, I'm looking to become a dealer directly with them. I may only stock about a dozen of the most popular ones (especially with the F-150 truck on the switch) but only stock the SPST (on/off) switches in only a couple of the LED colors. But once I finalize that, I'll know which cable to stock at that time.

Keep you guys all posted.
And again thanks! You guys are great!!

KustomFX

iTrader: (3)

Going in for arthroscopic knee surgery tomorrow, (torn miniscus).
Ill be down for a day or 2 but will be back at it. I'll reply to emails & check back with your orders on Friday. Thanks for understanding.
In the meantime, I finally uploaded a few videos on YouTube.
The following links should take you there!

They are simply quick videos of the laser Vaporizing the anodized aluminum, leaving a permanent logo. Of course these can only be done on the 4 switch, switch panels with the space in the center. I'll load a few more in a week or 2.
But definitely pretty cool to see how the process is done.

Thanks,
-Brett

F-150 logo:

Fx4 logo:

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