One more thought -
Make sure your transmission fluid level is correct. Initial fill after having transmission apart needs to be rechecked after you have warmed it up and put it through the gears. You may have to add significant amount probably up to eight quarts (if torque converter was changed or drained) but be sure not to overfill. Do not overfill and be careful when reading the dipstick since fluid level is sometimes hard to read, check both sides of the stick.
Let us know how you make out, good luck

 

The starting problem is resolved. It starts quickly every time now. I also filled it up with a little less than 8qts all in total. After the test drives it's sitting right in the harsh marks.

Thank you all. This has been extremely helpful. I will certainly look up those videos.

This is actually my parents truck and I am doing what I can for them. Unfortunately using a professional is not an option although that would be my first choice as well. At this point is either me or the junk yard so here I go.

If it is unsuccessful, I will probably be too busy slinging tools and parts around the garage (and picking them up again) to come give an update but if it goes well, I will be sure to come back in a few months and brag . I am sure I will make use of the expertise of you fine folks during in the process.

 

I am pretty sure that the truck's computer has to relearn the shift points so unless you think things are going to be damaged I would drive it for 50 miles or so before I would undertake a rebuild.
Once removed from the vehicle a 4R75E requires two or three special tools however, the videos show you how to build your own special tools. The main problem that I had when rebuilding mine was finding the correct snap ring tool for one of the servos, if I remember correctly it needed to be heavy duty and 45 degree. I have about twenty different snap ring tools and none worked properly. I search the internet from top to bottom and never found the correct snap ring tool for that one servo and it was a real PIA to install. Be prepared, as a novice on transmission rebuilds (and doing everything over and over to make sure it was right) this job took me about a week not counting waiting on parts. I also had an issue with lifting the 4x4 truck high enough to slide the transmission (used trans jack) out from under the truck. My garage ceiling is 8' and I was awfully close when I jacked it up. When I jacked the truck up (I raised it high enough to put 3 - 6x6s plus a 2x4 under the frame in four places) I did not raise it high enough to get the trans and trans jack out together, in fact I had to roll the trans off the jack and on to its side to slide it out. PIA
One more thing, you are going to have puddles of transmission fluid on the floor and on your work surface and COSCO is running low on paper towels.
My rebuild was very educational and trans has been working fine for about two years now.
As others have said, you may want to install a rebuilt trans or get one from a scrap yard or online, 4R75Es are used in other Ford product (e.g. Crown Victoria) and I am not aware of any differences except with the 4x4 output shaft and housing extension.

 

I realize this has been over a year since an update so if resurrecting this tread is a bad idea, I can more it to a new thread.

This is not exactly the the victory lap I had hoped for when undertaking this rebuild but I have not given up. A few set backs put this on the shelf until about a month ago. The truck's owner (my father) has now passed away and I am determined to get this thing up and running. So I am once again relying on you good folks to impart some wisdom and experience if you can.

I have been following the AODE rebuild videos from transmission bench (god send), and I found the pretty obvious problem with the transmission. It looks like a bearing blew out between the direct clutch and the forward clutch (planet?). Little metal shavings and those inside parts of the bearing were all over the place causing damage. The damage is mostly in the direct clutch and I have ordered a new drum along with a new most-everything-else in there and I have the rebuild kit so I will be able to replace the gears and friction plates. There were a few other seals and rings that were bad. The next issue is a biggie.

This is what the forward clutch or planet (ford parts website calls it a planet so I am confused) looks like. I now notice that there is damage on that inside bit. The top part is where the bad bearing was and it is all scratched up. Is there any way to repair this or am I out another $800?

 

I think you can replace the bushing inside the planet set, but the thrust face and inside the drum where you show the chewed up faces not so much.
bushing
https://cobratransmission.com/aod-ao...shing-109252-1

I would look for a cheaper source, or a refurbished/inspected used unit

 

Its probably late in the game for this question.
How far along are you in this rebuild? Do you have a helper?
My local U-Pull sells complete transmissions for $79.99 probably with a core charge or exchange. You have to pull it. If I were you I would consider a "you pull" for parts or possibly just a direct (no guarantee or than you can return for another) change. Yours has some severe internal damage.

 

Thank you for your time and replies. I'm about a month in. Not sure how many hours. Got everything a part and checked. Some replacement parts are ordered. No helper.

I like the idea of pulling one. I'll give it a go at U-Pull or the like in my area and try my luck.

 

Take a picture of the metal tag on the side of your transmission as well as an overall view or two and post them here. Maybe someone here can help you with interchange information. I have lost track, are you working on a 4x4? If it is a 4x4 the rear shaft is longer (it uses an extension housing) than a 2WD. You need to get an Exact Match.

 

No, it's just a 2WD.

The U-Pull near me say it has 3 2008 F-150s. Not sure how reliable that is but I plan on taking a trip out this weekend.

 

Take a picture of the other side a little above the location for the Digital Range Selector so that we get a view of the two electrical connection points (they can be empty for the photo) on the left side of the transmission. I want to make sure that we are looking at a 4R70E or a 4R75E transmission. I already know you are a 4R70E or a 4R75E but seeing is believing.
One way be sure you get an exact match for your transmission is to match the PKF-GF0 of your existing transmission label to a PKF-GF0 in the scrap yard. I am guessing the PKF-GF0 is specific to your 4.2 engine and it's probably unlikely will have that exact match but there should be compatible transmissions that will direct fit your 2008 4.2 liter. It would be a good idea to call the yard and ask about interchange before you are actually in the yard looking. I know that my 2007 4.6 liter has three starter mounting bolts (one is on top and you have to feel for it) and I believe the bell housing on a 5.4 liter only has two starter mounting bolts. You need to make sure that your 4.2 starter bolts match the transmission housing you may be purchasing.

Don't buy a trans from a 4x4 as the output shaft is longer and the trans housing utilizes an addition extension housing. With the exception of the output shaft the internals are the same 2008 to a 2008 even with the 2 bolt or 3 bolt issue and I believe 2007 internals are a match also. 2005 probably not, 2006 likely the same as 2008. You can tell which ones will match by checking for the two electrical connections previously mentioned.