What can cause a phaser dowel to snap on a 5.4 4v?
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
What can cause a phaser dowel to snap on a 5.4 4v?
Hey guys my 2006 f-150 keeps getting worse as I go.. when I bought it I noticed the right bank dowel had snapped in the phaser. So I got the whole new kit for everything front end of the motor shy of the block and internals themselves. I had everything in the proper spec and got a total of 15 miles run time on it granted it did run very very well before the dowel snapped again and jumped time again... any thoughts on what could be causing this? Should I go new camshaft and bearing caps if the head side journals are in good shape or just go with a whole new head? Or just go with a whole new motor? Truck looks bone stock all original with 171k miles just looked very very neglected. I'll post some pics of the old phaser and new phaser and cam shaft end...
#2
Moderator
3v? One possibility could be cheap parts. What brand of parts did you use and what exactly did you replace? Did you check the oil pan for pieces of the guides? Whats the actual oil pressure?
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
It is a 3v after inspecting closer the bearing caps are toasted and the cam is itself is toast on journals 2,3, and 4. I will post pics, the key way for the cam dowel to insert in is gacked pretty good as well. The head journals are in pretty good shape though so I'm wondering if I can get away with a new cam and bearing caps from a good core head and plasti gauge them to ensure they are in the proper spec, I can't remember the true spec but I know the ID or OD range was .001- .003. I amazond the parts but plan on at least going oem or cloyes for the next set of phasers even though one failed I will redo both. The part number I used from the amazon parts coresponded with the cloyes number however.
#4
Moderator
ONLY use OEM for the phasers, tensioners, and VCT solenoids. The rest of the components seem to get by pretty well with cloyes. Ive seen worse on the journals here on this site. That said... that tiny little bit of play could be what caused it. I think it may be more likely cheap phasers. Maybe even the combination of the two problems.
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I think your hunch is correct I'm still going to get a new cam and bearing caps off a core motor and I will be getting OEM phasers then and solenoids I never replaced the solenoid's they were still in good shape and tested positive with my voltmeter I never had any clicking sound at idle to give me the telltale that they went bad
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
The other item I'm going to replace also is the oil pump I use the cheap one but I'd rather go OEM or melling which would you recommend?
Last edited by Thomas55; 07-31-2017 at 05:10 PM. Reason: Misspelled words
#7
Moderator
Melling. I went with the 10340 since it claims to be a little higher pressure but overall it the same volume just a different tension on the spring valve than the M360. Many have used both Mellings with good results.
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#8
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Perfect thanks I'll keep you posted on progress, also because of thr dowel snapping and jumping time I immediately killed it does this give me a better standing for not bending a valve? I went through and checked all of the valves to see if they re seated properly from the top end of the motor and all looked proper however I know bending can still be a major issue. I'm going to also perform a compression test to ensure that my fears or not realized
#9
Moderator
I cant answer that one real well. My feeling is the only way is to pull the heads and inspect the cylinders. Someone else may have a better way.