After replacing all the back two speakers thinking the back left was blown, turns out it's my sub. It's got a little rattle. I have a 400w amp and want to put a 10" sub under the back seat where the stock is. Could I use the factory wiring for it? Thanks!

 

I tried to last week. It wouldn't work. Even though it has a ground and power. They are the two thicker wires. Then the green wire is the enable/remote wire. Then your two speaker wires +/-. I hooked up the powered line converter and nothing. Double checked it all and no go. I had to run the amp wires and then stick the line converter behind the dash and splice into the wires behind the deck. Everything is working nicely now. I'm running a 800 watt amp with a slim energy hertz 10". Sounds great. Huge upgrade from stock sub and not too much. My best guess the powered line converter needed a certain amount of volts and the line for the factory sub was not what it required. Other than that I have no clue why it didn't work.

 

Are you using the factory headunit? Because I have the factory sub in my truck and when I wanted to hook up my new deck i had to get a 12v to 5v step down so that the sub wouldnt "pop" when I turned it on. I don't really know much about stereos but I'm assuming most aftermarket amps use a 12v turn on and that the 5v put out by the factory stereo just won't work.

 

I have an aftermarket with the 12V to 5V connector. Would I need to take that out to run new stuff to get it backup 12V?

 

You'll want to take that out. The factory amp only uses 5v for turn on signal. All aftermarket amps use 12v.

Youll want atleast 8 gauge power and fround for that amp. So stick wiring us out. Aside from factory wires being too small, they are far away from the battery going thru fuse block and atound the truck etc. Getting voltage drop.

Keep ground wire same size as power wire and as close to amp as possible.

 

There's got to be a way to splice the factory sub harness into a sheilded RCA inputAnyone that can help me figure this out?
Also, wouldnt the LOC make its own voltage to send a turn on signal? Mine has a remote wire coming from it and just speaker level inputs plus ground, as well as power wire