mitch686

well have been pondering over this build for quite sometime and finnally got that much needed raise at work!

My 2 year plan is to build a street legal trophy truck, have been tossing the idea around for a while now and sounds like the plan might be coming together.

I will start by saying that this is going to be a task that I have zero experience in!

I have however rebuilt a few motors, and done some SAS and such so I do have a mechanical ability!

My plan is for the http://www.dixonbrosracing.com/content/view/111/3/

long travel kit for the front, four link in the rear with nice big shocks sticking up in the box

that stuff I can handle.

now the fun part, motor and transmission

I am planning on running twin GT28 turbos and would like to be around the 700 HP mark.

trust me I know this is going to cost a small fortune but I am prepared for 15000-25000 to be spent.

Now I was curious if anyone knows of what these 5.4 blocks are capable of? everything else need not to worry about because the block will be the only ford part left on the truck.

as for transmission that is where I am really lacking in knowledge, I obviously know with that much power I can kiss the old transmission goodbye, as for a replacement I am open to all suggestions?

I am going to build this truck to handle a 1000hp but I like the idea of having a nice gap between and sitting around the 700 mark.

just starting to brainstorm and looking for any ideas, tips, etc.

cheers!

scobar

iTrader: (4)

Double your budget.

shadowrider

The block will handle 2000hp with out even blinking. To build it the internals will cost around $2k, head and main studs around $400, oil pump $300, gaskets $300 plus machine work balancing and clearancing.

You will need ported heads and custom cams which will run around $5k with all new timing componets.

Fuel system will run around $1200 and you'll have to modify the tank.

Turbos, piping, wastgates, BOV will run around $6000-$7000

Rear end will be around $800

Trans will have to be built and will run around $4000.

That puts you around $21k for total cost not including dyno time and tuning, gauges, and about $1000+ in other small parts.

I built a 2v 4.6 mustang to 700rwhp using a novi 2000 and it ran me around $18k to build the entire car, Turbo will be much more.

mitch686

thank you, now i just gotta start sourcing out companys and building my list,

as for the turbo stuff, turbos are free () and all other parts of that system will be at cost... i no lucky me; have a friend that builds turbos. electronic tuning will also be included in this, not dyno tho as they are kinda rare up here in canada.

so I would be safe if I wanted to bore out the block a little bit as well? I am still undecided if thats what I want to do tho.

the only part I am skeptical about is the transmission as it will be the only thing I am not doing myself. any good leads on perforamce transmissions? checked out a few of the ford racing ones, but the website is quite limited.

and as for budget boy ^^^ like any build I know I am going to end up over my budget but Id still like to have a realistic number to tell the GF, and the rest of my family who think I am crazy

also might have a lead on a good deal for moly rings, pistons etc which should help.

papa tiger

We all make our mistakes and learn from them. LOL

mitch686

referring to?

Swegner99

You say street legal trophy truck as a pretty loose term... Are you actually planning on racing this beast in any sanctioned events? If you are then you should send away for the rule book, im not sure what the stipulations are in Canada on desert racing, but here in the states, you cant run anything charged, unless its from the factory. Just a heads up. Should be an awesome build, cant wait to follow the progress.

shadowrider

You can bore a modular block up to .030 over but with the amount of boost you will have to run to reach 700hp I would only go .020 over.

You will not be able to run pump gas without meth injection so keep that in mind. If you have E85 up there I would go that route but that will increase your fuel system cost.

WarSurfer

you can do it at that price point but you will need to get creative - just throwing money at 'brand x' parts will take you over 50k easy.

because Raptor owners are in full swing modification mode now you can pick up a set of factory Raptor LCA's on the cheap - there is a set on ebay right now for ~400 bucks - your frame is the same so they will simply bolt on. You will need longer front axles regardless of which route you take.

saying '14 inches of travel' is nice but totally not needed unless you HAVE to spend the money. you can get more performance than you will ever need out of the 12.5 inches you can get from Raptor LCA's and an upgraded no-bind uniball UCA from a reputable dealer (~700 bucks) - so for around 1100 dollars you can have more capability than you'll ever need, the look you want and a more budget friendly price - less than half of the kit you linked. I would pick up used Raptor spindles and be done with it, if you aren't racing you'll never need anything more.

If you shave a little money off the hardware, you can spend it on the coilovers which is where the performance really comes in. You are looking at around $4,400 for a good set of coilovers and bypass rears - there are several options - my personal preference are the new Fox 3.0's. Call RPG and they can sell you a set with valving tailored to your F150's weight bias - that's built into the price (side benefit of being so similar to a Raptor), anywhere else and you are looking at a full days wages for two techs to beat on your truck in the desert and tune the shocks as they go.

You can do the 4-link yourself if you know how to weld - there's a ton of info on the web for a full tilt DIY project or you can pick up a kit from one of the big names in desert racing. You should truss the rear - rather than spend big coin on a full built big name rear, grab a Sterling 10+ out of an F250/F350, truss it and call it a day. It will be more than strong enough for what you'll do with it and will cost about 1/10th the price.

There are some creative DIY bed cage solutions out there - check out the 'largest off road website in the world'... in the desert racing section for lots of pictures and descriptions - very easy.

if memory serves 6.1L is about as big as you can go without stupid money on resleeving, etc... honestly, you don't need more displacement if your plan is boost. just forge the internals and turn up the wick - there are no real 'cheap' ways to do this unless you pick up a used lightning engine and replace the rods. send the factory eaton to Steigmeier for porting and smaller pulley install - a reliable 650hp is easily within reach. or go whipple and get some real hp numbers - and start breaking ****.

here is some inspiration - post lots of pics!!!



http://www.motortopia.com/streettruc...n-handle-1215/

2007SCrew

Check this out for the transmission - http://www.brianstruckshop.com/

I've had nothing but good dealings with them. They built a 4R100 for a Lightning I had, and it took a ton of abuse and never gave any problems.