Truck spudders
#11
good ole Ford tech makalacoclaol. Guy is pretty smart
#13
So I tried the trick of unplugging the VCTS and the shaking went away. Also I didn't realize it until I started playing around with it, but I have an edge evo programer ant I can set it to monitor the cam timing. When at idle it stays between -1 and 1, when accelerating it jumps up to around 40-45. When it starts shaking at idle, it is still reading 40-45, then if I press the gas and rev it up, it will fix itself, and idle normal, and the reading goes back down to around 0. Nice to be able to see it failing to know what to fix. I'm picking up two today from oriley's, my father in law works there so good discount. I'll post once its changed.
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F150Torqued (07-08-2017)
#14
Good luck! Hopefully you'll be squared away
#15
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by Airfrm
So I tried the trick of unplugging the VCTS and the shaking went away. Also I didn't realize it until I started playing around with it, but I have an edge evo programer ant I can set it to monitor the cam timing. When at idle it stays between -1 and 1, when accelerating it jumps up to around 40-45. When it starts shaking at idle, it is still reading 40-45, then if I press the gas and rev it up, it will fix itself, and idle normal, and the reading goes back down to around 0. Nice to be able to see it failing to know what to fix. I'm picking up two today from oriley's, my father in law works there so good discount. I'll post once its changed.
Last edited by Especial86; 07-08-2017 at 03:16 PM.
The following users liked this post:
F150Torqued (07-08-2017)
#16
LightningRod
So I tried the trick of unplugging the VCTS and the shaking went away. Also I didn't realize it until I started playing around with it, but I have an edge evo programer ant I can set it to monitor the cam timing. When at idle it stays between -1 and 1, when accelerating it jumps up to around 40-45. When it starts shaking at idle, it is still reading 40-45, then if I press the gas and rev it up, it will fix itself, and idle normal, and the reading goes back down to around 0. Nice to be able to see it failing to know what to fix. I'm picking up two today from oriley's, my father in law works there so good discount. I'll post once its changed.
THAT is very valuable diagnostics information! Thanks for posting it.
#18
LightningRod
If they look good, aren't flattened or brittle from excessive heat, you'll probably be alright. Torque them properly and make sure there is NO LEAK. Check VCT solenoid VC seals also. The crankcase, VCs, FC and all is sealed and draws metered air from the air box into passenger VC. A leak anywhere lets 'unmetered' air in and screws up fuel trims.
#19
Ok so the drivers side which looks like the harder side was actually very easy. The passenger side however is a diffferent story. I have read mixed reviews if I need to discharge the A/C and remove the suction accumulator? It looks like it is impossible to remove the valve covers without removing it.
#20
Hello all,
So I finished changing out both VCT solinoids. I was able to get the passenger side valve cover off without discharging the A/C. I used twine to hold all the wire harness and coolant lines out of the way, it looked like a spider web of twine but it worked pretty good. Everything is complete, drove it around for a little bit and am having no issues, so I quests we will see the next few days driving it to work. Thank you for all the assistance everyone provided. It was very helpful.
So I finished changing out both VCT solinoids. I was able to get the passenger side valve cover off without discharging the A/C. I used twine to hold all the wire harness and coolant lines out of the way, it looked like a spider web of twine but it worked pretty good. Everything is complete, drove it around for a little bit and am having no issues, so I quests we will see the next few days driving it to work. Thank you for all the assistance everyone provided. It was very helpful.