Truck jerks at slight acceleration at 45-50mph
01-11-2017, 10:36 AM
#21
Senior Member
I was having the same issues when my truck was at 160k.
When accelerating & decelerating between 50-65 miles, my truck would do a sudden jerks & rumbles for about a second. Yet, no CEL codes.
Knowing this was the range when my truck shifts between overdrive and drive, I decided to take it to a transmission shop.
They informed me the torque converter was going bad. Since it was already past 150k miles and I had the money, I went further had them rebuild the transmission. They called me 2 days later to show me the gears, many of which were very bad. Shop owner told me I was anywhere from 100 to 500 miles from complete transmission failure.
He informed the original factory transmissions from 2004 to 2007 was really only intended for F150s with V6s, not V8s? I dont know about that though.
01-11-2017, 09:20 PM
#22
Member
Thread Starter
It is frustrating talking to any of the service dept reps. I went to my dealers service department and asked them if I could talk to a professional Ford mechanic to discuss the probability of what causes the bucking when only in O.D. between 1200 and 1700 rpm's (roughly 40 to 55 mph) on a slight load going up a slight grade. They look like they all have dark hollow pools for eyes when I explain to them and all they do is guess. When I asked the rep if I could talk to a pro tranny mechanic first he just stood there insinuating that he was the pro and all I got was guess work. I like to have a conversation first with a professional mechanic that actually knows about diagnosticing probability before I plug it into their diagnostic equipment. I've gone in for a $70 job and walked out costing $400 and sometimes more. Anyway, it doesn't do it when I disengage the O.D. no mater what low RPM's I'm still am turning same 1000 to 1700 RPM's. Motor runs very strong, has no real noticeable engine skips. Idles fairly smooth. I had the plugs replaced back around 86,000 miles. Trucks got 126,000 miles now. I did have a transmission O.D. switch replaced, probably a couple of years ago, when it couldn't make up its mind to stay in O.D. I had that fuel module replaced that's attached to the frame back by the rear axle one time when I encountered a skip while driving along back then too. That was a couple of years ago too. The injectors have been checked around that time too and no problems with them, YET. I've purchased a couple of those engine diagnostic tools back then that couldn't find any codes to tell me what needs to be fixed or replaced. Brought them back. Right now I just want to find somebody that has experienced a similar problem that might shed some light on this problem before I commit to being highway robbed at the dealer.
01-11-2017, 09:22 PM
#23
Member
Thread Starter
^This
I was having the same issues when my truck was at 160k.
When accelerating & decelerating between 50-65 miles, my truck would do a sudden jerks & rumbles for about a second. Yet, no CEL codes.
Knowing this was the range when my truck shifts between overdrive and drive, I decided to take it to a transmission shop.
They informed me the torque converter was going bad. Since it was already past 150k miles and I had the money, I went further had them rebuild the transmission. They called me 2 days later to show me the gears, many of which were very bad. Shop owner told me I was anywhere from 100 to 500 miles from complete transmission failure.
He informed the original factory transmissions from 2004 to 2007 was really only intended for F150s with V6s, not V8s? I dont know about that though.
I was having the same issues when my truck was at 160k.
When accelerating & decelerating between 50-65 miles, my truck would do a sudden jerks & rumbles for about a second. Yet, no CEL codes.
Knowing this was the range when my truck shifts between overdrive and drive, I decided to take it to a transmission shop.
They informed me the torque converter was going bad. Since it was already past 150k miles and I had the money, I went further had them rebuild the transmission. They called me 2 days later to show me the gears, many of which were very bad. Shop owner told me I was anywhere from 100 to 500 miles from complete transmission failure.
He informed the original factory transmissions from 2004 to 2007 was really only intended for F150s with V6s, not V8s? I dont know about that though.
01-12-2017, 03:41 AM
#24
05 5.4l 3v s.crew lariat
Do the plugs yourself
Do them right . Blow out area and holes with air first . Remove plugs by hand only, no power tools . These are aluminum heads be careful start by hand using a good feel socket and fingers . , don't force them in , back out and restart if it feels a little off .
Read ford TSB on plugs ,use nickel anti seize on tips not on electrode . Nickel has high temp rating 2400 degrees or so . Buy on amazon it will last a long time . For sure don't use copper anti,, its hell on alum .
Some of us use carb cleaner in hole to remove old build up as to not damage new plugs during tight installation . Allow time for carb cleaner to evap, you don't want to hydro lock cyl .
Most of us change plugs 30k to 50k .
Torque wrench plugs in 25 to 28 pounds , double check , don't go by feel . Stick with new oem plugs or champions 7989. I use champions but many do not like them, lets not go there . .
Use new boots/ springs with a small amount of dielectric compound on each end .The grease stops moisture as well as stopping boots from heat seizing on plugs . Some guys clean contact point on cops . This engine requires a torque wrench either buy one or borrow one . I use the click type easy to do .
Loose plugs are constant problem on these engines,you can damage threads if they blow out of there. Boots get damaged, causes misfires ,etc.
Don't wash this engine unless you know how to prevent damage . Its difficult to dry out . oil and gas getting into spark holes must be cleaned by hand . oil/gas Ruins boots too .
Do you really think a shop is going to give this care to your engine ?
Good luck .
Read ford TSB on plugs ,use nickel anti seize on tips not on electrode . Nickel has high temp rating 2400 degrees or so . Buy on amazon it will last a long time . For sure don't use copper anti,, its hell on alum .
Some of us use carb cleaner in hole to remove old build up as to not damage new plugs during tight installation . Allow time for carb cleaner to evap, you don't want to hydro lock cyl .
Most of us change plugs 30k to 50k .
Torque wrench plugs in 25 to 28 pounds , double check , don't go by feel . Stick with new oem plugs or champions 7989. I use champions but many do not like them, lets not go there . .
Use new boots/ springs with a small amount of dielectric compound on each end .The grease stops moisture as well as stopping boots from heat seizing on plugs . Some guys clean contact point on cops . This engine requires a torque wrench either buy one or borrow one . I use the click type easy to do .
Loose plugs are constant problem on these engines,you can damage threads if they blow out of there. Boots get damaged, causes misfires ,etc.
Don't wash this engine unless you know how to prevent damage . Its difficult to dry out . oil and gas getting into spark holes must be cleaned by hand . oil/gas Ruins boots too .
Do you really think a shop is going to give this care to your engine ?
Good luck .
The following users liked this post:
SamMcClurg (01-12-2017)
01-12-2017, 10:48 AM
#25
Senior Member
Multiple jerks in rapid succession.
Pretend if you were driving at 50 mph then you drive over a few of those small strips of speed bump things. That would give you a general idea of what I was experiencing.
Some transmission shops will give you a free test.
Pretend if you were driving at 50 mph then you drive over a few of those small strips of speed bump things. That would give you a general idea of what I was experiencing.
Some transmission shops will give you a free test.
Last edited by adanvjr; 01-12-2017 at 10:50 AM. Reason: Added some notes.
01-13-2017, 06:03 PM
#26
My tranny was jerking like crazy then I got a misfire on #4.
It is your igniters and boots. I had a missfire on the #4 and moved the igniter to #1 but not the boot and plug spring (master technician so I know how to troubleshoot these types of problems). It misfired again on #4 so the boot? I bought a set (8) for about $60.00 on-line because local Ford shop way too high on price.
When replacing boots and springs I noticed the tab the spring connects to heavily corroded. I cleaned with (R) Tri-Flow and after it started running much better I thought that the misfiring, not detected by computer, clogged up my combustion chambers and cat. I put 3 cans of BG 44K down my tank for next 3 tankfuls (2 cans for first tankful due to 28.6 gal tank then 1 can for half a tank and drove it on the highway to blow out) and my truck runs like brand new.
Long story short. Transmission is fine except for a little wear and tear from being so confused which gear it needed to be in based on the commands from the computer relying on the ignition spark to guide it.
I hope this helps a lot of people. Free of charge.
It is your igniters and boots. I had a missfire on the #4 and moved the igniter to #1 but not the boot and plug spring (master technician so I know how to troubleshoot these types of problems). It misfired again on #4 so the boot? I bought a set (8) for about $60.00 on-line because local Ford shop way too high on price.
When replacing boots and springs I noticed the tab the spring connects to heavily corroded. I cleaned with (R) Tri-Flow and after it started running much better I thought that the misfiring, not detected by computer, clogged up my combustion chambers and cat. I put 3 cans of BG 44K down my tank for next 3 tankfuls (2 cans for first tankful due to 28.6 gal tank then 1 can for half a tank and drove it on the highway to blow out) and my truck runs like brand new.
Long story short. Transmission is fine except for a little wear and tear from being so confused which gear it needed to be in based on the commands from the computer relying on the ignition spark to guide it.
I hope this helps a lot of people. Free of charge.
The following users liked this post:
slippindots (07-28-2021)
01-14-2017, 11:15 AM
#30
I recommend that you buy the plugs that Ford shows go in there either at Ford or on-line, the same exact plug. My 2004 I bought in 2008 and had to replace the plugs right away because Ford had put the wrong plugs in it at the engine build factory. They are definitely different and make the truck run soooo much better. So, get the part number from Ford and search for them cheaper because Ford is way overpriced.
I hope this helps save you a ton of money.
The following users liked this post:
DesertRoads (01-17-2017)