ImUrHuckleBerri

Hello All,
I have an 07' F150 that I did an electric fan conversion with using the Troyer Performance electric fan kit. Recently one of the fans has stopped working and I have replaced the relay just to be sure but I still have the same issue. Does anyone know what has happened to Troyer and his website? Or where I could possibly buy a controller from that kit to replace the one that is currently not working?

Thanks,
Huck

Chinatown Boy

This is a bit of a late reply.


I don't know what happened to Mike Troyer. Different people on the internet have said different things.


The controller is a relay on a base. The fan is normally closed on the relay. Power from the battery is common. Power from green wire, which can be toggle switched or connected to the AC system activates the coil. Radiator fin probes are connected to a key on power supply, and they also activate the coil. An expotentiometer sets the turn on temperature.

Over time, there's corrosion and heat damage. Fuses, fuse holders, and power wires had problems with melting. The kit was sold with a fuse between the battery and relay. Then the fuse was switched to between the relay and fan. Expotentiometer stops responding. Sometimes you find wiring problems. Sometimes the relays fail. Sometimes the relay base fails.

I got several replacements under warranty. Then I bought a few. Now, I need another. Pretty easy to just splice in a new controller since wires are already installed.


Derale has a new design which is supposed to be better.

Chinatown Boy

Here is the original Mike Troyer Performance controller. It uses Beuler relays, with a Derale sticker, on a base with an expotentiometer. Part number 4003647-01. Derale no longer sells this part. Hayden sells part number 3647. On my truck, I replaced it with the current Derale fan controller.

Chinatown Boy

These are the fans, still working, on an '07. The OEM thermostat is fully open at 195. The temperature probe is installed next to the inlet hose. I decided to leave the old controllers' fan probes in place, because I didn't want to disturb or further damage the radiator fins by pulling them out. The upgraded controller turns on fan 1, which is on the passenger side next to the inlet hose, between 190 - 200. Fan 2 is for the fan on the driver side, where the radiator outlet returns fluid to the engine block.

The push in probe temperature sensor is sensitive to a variety of factors. Conditions vary. Ambient temperature. Air flow. Wind. The cylinder head temperature is monitored via OBDII port with a ScanGauge II. From a cold start, I've seen the CHT reach 192 - 200, as fan 1 activates. Fan 1 is usually off by 188 - 190. In the real world, the truck's movement provides adequate air flow to cool the radiator fluid. The fan only activates when the truck is sitting in bumper to bumper, stop and go traffic. It is still extremely efficient. The fan brings the temperature down within minutes, and turns off immediately.


Overall, after 15+ years of using the electric fans on this truck, I would say that they are good. Derale states that 16" tornado fans draw 18.4 amps. I haven't measured it. I can only tell you that the fans drew enough voltage to overload the 30 amp fuses, melt the fuse holders, and burn out the relay base controller. I sort of accepted that every few years, I would need to replace the relay controllers. Hopefully, the new style of controller will work better.