GrimaceTimus

Yeah...I used red loctite on it when I installed it and even let it sit over night before re-installing. Guess I didn't have the threads clean enough or something. I am calling around for the Ford OEM pan that has the drain-plug built-in. Or if I can't find that, I think I am just going to pony-up the $120-$200 to get a racing pan with the drain-plug built-in.

madeSICC

Jbweld on the outside, that's what I used, used it on the threads too, thing isn't going anywhere.

GrimaceTimus

I found the source of my problem. After draining last night, I re-installed the small 1/4" plug and over-tightened it. The little black o-ring got crushed and fluid was weeping from the damage. I backed it off a little and it stopped.

Nevertheless, with the body moving around I am going to drop the pan anyway and redo with a freaking bottle of thread-locker and Permatex. I'd consider the JBWeld, but man if you ever have to get that thing out for some reason, forget it.

The o-ring on the drain-plug ... I don't notice one in any of your pictures, Especial86. Do you have one? Or do you just put the plug-in without the o-ring?

ophidia

Mine had the o-ring, which oozed a little regardless of how it was tightened. I pulled the plug out again, threw away the o-ring, and just put teflon tape on the threads. No more leak.

budedm

Use locktite thread SEALER, not thread locker. And I'd throw the o ring out and use a rubber or nylon washer.

Especial86

iTrader: (1)

No o ring on my plug... Mine tightens up good into a conical seat at the end.. For extra assurance you could always Teflon tape, or Teflon paste the threads of the plug after you drain the transmission..

When I said check that plug body for tightness at least 3 times, I mean it. With the nylon washer on the outside of the pan, you should be able to observe it slightly grinding away nylon as the plug body recesses into it.. This is what will help the washer dig into the drilled hole on the pan, and also keep that plug body tight..

GrimaceTimus

I thought I had it pretty dang tight. I took my 3/4" box-end and 1/2" drive ratchet / 3/4" socket to it and wrenched on that sucker until I thought I might break the threads. I'll give'er hell this time and put one of my boys on the box-end so that I can grab the ratchet with two hands!

Especial86

iTrader: (1)

Slide a pipe on the end of the wrench and ratchet to really crank it tight... Pin the pipe on the box wrench side against the floor and stabilize the pan between your legs... Then crank that plug down tight with your pipe and ratchet..

GrimaceTimus

Well, the body of the drain is back in the pan. I was able brace the box end against my workbench, sorta lay across the pan and I tightened that thing until I just could not anymore. I have got it so tight that the nylon washer on the inside (also white like the one on the outside) is a little deformed. But I tightened that thing to at least 150 ft-pd (just guessing based on feel and recently applying 180 ft-pd with a torque-wrench during my 2" leveling kit).

Last time, I only waited like 2 hours before going back on with the pan and filling it up. I am going to be on the extra cautious-side this time and let that thing sit at least overnight, perhaps for the full 24 hours.

I'd say there is at least 3 threads showing on the inside ... maybe 4. The way that nylon washer started to buckle, I hope I didn't give the MercV someplace to weep.

The outside seemed to stay a little flatter.

budedm

I'm coming over in about a week to dump a pint of tranny fluid under your truck when you're not looking.