Throttle Actuator Motor....OR....TPS????
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Throttle Actuator Motor....OR....TPS????
Howdy race fans......so how many of you have had any problems with your throttle position sensor or throttle actuator motor???? I ask because last week just as I was coming home from work right in front of my driveway I lost all throttle. The truck was running but no throttle. I have a Bully Dog Triple Dog GT, so I did a diagnostic, it gave Throttle position/pedal position malfunction, Throttle actuator forced idle and Throttle actuator stuck closed. I erased codes, started the truck back and has been fine ever since. Sooooo, after some research and being a mechanic myself and working in the automotive field I have come to a few conclusions but would like some feedback as well. First, according to Ford when a drive by wire vehicle poses these symptoms they recommend replacing the entire throttle body (cannot purchse actuator motor without entire body) and also the position sensor all togehtor. The throttle body is $343 and the sensor is $111. Now here is my dilemna, Out of the dealings I have had with a drive by wire failure, there is no possible fix without replacing the "problemed part". Now, like I said after erasing codes my truck has been just fine. If the throttle actuator motor was at fault erasing the codes would not have "fixed" it. If the motor recieves a DC voltage from the ECM and was at fault, it would not open the butterfly. If the TPS was at fault then the signal to the ECM would not be present. So could I have just had a glitch or the possibilty of having to replace the TPS or throtle body soon.......???? Has anyone had this issue????
#2
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Peru, NE currently
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I have a similar problem. I still have throttle but it becomes sluggish and I get a TPS code. I reset the throttle position and clear the code. It's usually fine with highway driving but in town in stop and go traffic I get the code again. I don't know what else to do for it. I have considered replacing the throttle body too but I don't want to spend that much money if it doesn't fix the problem
#3
Moderator (Ret.)
Consider buying used, from a low mileage vehicle. More than half the price of new. I've been doing this for years on my truck; have never had a failure doing this.
Currently I have a low mileage starter and alternator ready to use if/when my current ones fail. I find them off of Ebay moters, parts and accessories. The bone yards advertise there all the time, or visit your local yards.
Currently I have a low mileage starter and alternator ready to use if/when my current ones fail. I find them off of Ebay moters, parts and accessories. The bone yards advertise there all the time, or visit your local yards.
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I beleive I may have found the problem, at least I hope so. with the codes being throttle actuator stuck closed and forced idle, if the butterfly in the TB is gummed up or gets " stuck" or has resistance against it as it tries to move the ECM will shut it down to prevent damage to the actuator motor. When the ECM shuts the throttle down it will trip the above mentioned codes. Also if running an aftermarket "oiled" filter be careful not to over oil the filter, excess oil can gum the butterfly and cause the problem. I am going to remove mine tonight and thoroughly clean the crap out of it. Be sure to use throttle body cleaner and NOT carb cleaner. Carb cleaner will remove the reckon coating from the butterfly and will damage the TB. Goodluck and reply if anybody is having my same issues.