uzikaduzi

I don't know what they charge to re-surface a manifold but you'd still need new gaskets... the dorman manifold is $65 and comes with the flange studs and nuts and gaskets... you can't re-use the studs (i guess it's physically possible to re-use them, but i wouldn't... especially with the amount of work this is... you don't want to do it twice) the dorman ones are $10.

rangertamer

Is there anyway my "exhaust tick" could be a spark plug? I mean the sound hasn't got any worse, but it's really loud on start up and then fades away until I start driving.

07ford

I very recently did both jobs. Plugs came out no issues, but I had the lisle tool on hand, just Google or ebay 5.4 3v spark plug tool and you'll find it. I i would stick with hand tools on everything, if they are gonna break they're gonna brake....on the the manifold...

I had 2 studs broken off on the rear cylinder on the passenger side, and the bottom on the front cylinder broke off while I was removing. I removed the y pipe completely, then the started which is a pain but rather than use a bunch of extensions I found the easiest way was to use a 1/4 ratchet and deep socket and reach from the bottom between the frame and starter to get the top bolt. With the exhaust and starter out of the way the manifold slides right out (everyone of my not broken studs came out with the nut.) I used a set of Dewalt cobalt drill bits that I shortened and a right angle air drill from harbor freight to drill out the studs. I used a center punch (that I also cut in half so I could sorta hit it with a hammer) to dimple near center...it's important to be close but none of mine were exact. Both studs on the rear cylinder actually spun further in while I was drilling, so I chased the exposed threads and used an easy out to spin them out, and they came out very easy. The third broken stud was more of a pain because it's hidden behind the uca mount. On that one there was maybe 3/8 sticking out, tried welding to it, didn't work. I ended up grinding it down flush with the head, then drilling about 1/8 in into it, working all the way up to 3/8 bit which removed the 1st through threads in the head where the damage was. After that it came out just like the first 2. I did unbolt the a/c compressor so I could move it just enough to squeeze my right arm in behind the uca, so I was kind of hugging it while hanging on to the drill for stability, but it wasn't necessary. I bought a new stud kit along with the manifold and used quite a bit of antisieze and fel pro gaskets. I put just the top studs in, hung the gaskets on them slid the manifold in, then installed the lower studs and torqued it down. I DID NOT unbolt or lift the motor at all and it all went smooth, but if I didn't have the right angle air drill I would have had too...that tool might be the best 35 bucks i spent. I haven't done the drivers side yet, no leaks there but it looks easier.

07ford

Oh and given that the tick fades, I'd def put my money on an exhaust leak, that's usually how it gets noticed and exactly what mine did.

rangertamer

Alright new question Time lol. I decided today to unplug my vct solenoids to see if some noise would go away and sure enough some did, but not all of the sound did. If I unplug the solenoids should all the sound go away or does it still make some noise until you replace them with new ones?

rfinger

Fixed my ticking a bit ago with find that my plugs had worked loose....i replaced #4 and #8 and retorqued them all down to 25lbs and no ticking....just a thought.

rangertamer

what year is your truck, sorry I'm on my phone and can't see what year of truck you have. I didn't think the plugs coming loose would be a issue.

rangertamer

What's the deal with this? I don't understand why they look different but are listed for my truck, obviously a price difference but they don't look like the same shape or like they would both work the same. Please can someone tell me the difference?

rangertamer

Sorry I don't know why it put 3 of the same picture in my last post