Supercharger FX4
#11
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Buy a whipple!! If you keep your eyes out for a good used deal, it will eventually come around. I just bought a used whipple right here on this forum last week.. I got a great deal on it too!..
The best person to talk to around here about superchargers is Blownford like others have stated.
Long tube headers high flow cats, an SCT tuner are all recommended mods you can do in the run up to supercharging. A wide band 02 will also be something you want to think about running and monitoring if your gonna play with canned tunes on the SCT programer before you get a blower.. Stay away from the edge CS and CTS units (they cannot be custom tuned anymore).
I'm hoping to put SC in next month. I still got to get some extra parts installed like high flow cats, and LT headers before I install the whipple kit. I'm going to be running somewhere around 8.5 - 9 lbs of boost with a 3.25 pulley.. The stock whipple kit pumps out 8lbs of boost.
The best person to talk to around here about superchargers is Blownford like others have stated.
Long tube headers high flow cats, an SCT tuner are all recommended mods you can do in the run up to supercharging. A wide band 02 will also be something you want to think about running and monitoring if your gonna play with canned tunes on the SCT programer before you get a blower.. Stay away from the edge CS and CTS units (they cannot be custom tuned anymore).
I'm hoping to put SC in next month. I still got to get some extra parts installed like high flow cats, and LT headers before I install the whipple kit. I'm going to be running somewhere around 8.5 - 9 lbs of boost with a 3.25 pulley.. The stock whipple kit pumps out 8lbs of boost.
Last edited by Especial86; 10-08-2013 at 04:59 PM.
#13
Buy a whipple!! If you keep your eyes out for a good used deal, it will eventually come around. I just bought a used whipple right here on this forum last week.. I got a great deal on it too!..
The best person to talk to around here about superchargers is Blownford like others have stated.
Long tube headers high flow cats, an SCT tuner are all recommended mods you can do in the run up to supercharging. A wide band 02 will also be something you want to think about running and monitoring if your gonna play with canned tunes on the SCT programer before you get a blower.. Stay away from the edge CS and CTS units (they cannot be custom tuned anymore).
I'm hoping to put SC in next month. I still got to get some extra parts installed like high flow cats, and LT headers before I install the whipple kit. I'm going to be running somewhere around 8.5 - 9 lbs of boost with a 3.25 pulley.. The stock whipple kit pumps out 8lbs of boost.
The best person to talk to around here about superchargers is Blownford like others have stated.
Long tube headers high flow cats, an SCT tuner are all recommended mods you can do in the run up to supercharging. A wide band 02 will also be something you want to think about running and monitoring if your gonna play with canned tunes on the SCT programer before you get a blower.. Stay away from the edge CS and CTS units (they cannot be custom tuned anymore).
I'm hoping to put SC in next month. I still got to get some extra parts installed like high flow cats, and LT headers before I install the whipple kit. I'm going to be running somewhere around 8.5 - 9 lbs of boost with a 3.25 pulley.. The stock whipple kit pumps out 8lbs of boost.
#14
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Be careful with used blowers. The shop that did my tuning put a used, customer supplied blower on an F150 and dynoed it. During the run, the tuner said the blower was making a funny noise, and recommended the owner of the truck take it back off and send it to Whipple for inspection/service. He declined. Took the truck on it's first test drive, got into it hard, the blower came apart and took the engine with it. I'm sure there are just as many good stories as bad ones, but just be careful. Saving a few hundred can cost you thousands.
I spun it up as quick as I could by hand to listen for any scratching, scuffing, or ticking and she's whisper quiet. The snout/pulley is tight and the screws have minimal wear from debris making it passed the filter. I definitely saved quite a bit more then hundreds buying it used, and in all honesty this blower was definitely a diamond selling at a charcoal price....
New these kits sell for over 5k+. A remanufactured whipple blower or rebuild parts can be found for very reasonable prices. As long as you have a whipple for a core..
I also plan on keeping my truck till the wheels fall off, and I already had the intention of going the route of forced induction one way or another. My next purchase at some point in the distant future will be to buy another (cheap) 04 -08 F150 to harvest fresh parts from.. I will pluck the motor out of it and build it up in my spare time.
Special thanks to Blownford for helping me out through my whipple purchase..
#15
12 Second Truck
Be careful with used blowers. The shop that did my tuning put a used, customer supplied blower on an F150 and dynoed it. During the run, the tuner said the blower was making a funny noise, and recommended the owner of the truck take it back off and send it to Whipple for inspection/service. He declined. Took the truck on it's first test drive, got into it hard, the blower came apart and took the engine with it. I'm sure there are just as many good stories as bad ones, but just be careful. Saving a few hundred can cost you thousands.
#16
12 Second Truck
But all that aside, there's some great advice in this thread. Be ready for the expense of more frequent maintenance.
Oil changes at least every 4,000 miles using fully synthetic oil ($38). I also change mine after I drag race at the track regardless of miles.
HT0 plugs gapped .032 every 10-15K miles ($80). Copper plugs wear quicker but provide the best performance.
Fuel filter ever 10-15k ($9) Note: Just change it when you change the plugs. Easy to remember.
For top performance and mpg's replace the O2 sensors every 70-75k. ($65) Working properly or not they start to slow at this age.
You will likely want to replace the belt every 20-25k miles ($40). At the very least keep check on it as the miles build. I carry a spare belt with the jack under the seat so I don't have to worry.
Tires ($$$$)
And of course always run 91 or 93 octane whichever you're area has.
Outside of that you don't "need" anything else but the kit itself. However a wideband a/f meter is great to have and can save your butt. Vac/boost gauge is nice to have. A true dual exhaust system with long tube headers will greatly reduce exhaust gas temps and which will reduce cooling temps. I recommend a 170F or 180F t-stat instead of the 160 in the kit. 39, 42, or 47lb fuel injectors and a custom tune from JDM will get you the best power, fuel economy, and longevity. Oh and relocate the IAT sensor to intake runner 5. Sensor P/N DY745 and plug P/N 3U2Z-14S411-JUA. Use wires from pin 1 gray/red and pin 6 Gray in your MAF plug to wire the sensor.
That's about it. Get your HT0 (HTzero) from Advanceauto online. Use promo code P20 for 20% off. Get your injectors here http://www.blueovalindustries.com/engine/fuel.html best prices anywhere.
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Customization (10-09-2013)
#17
No offense pcastal (as you are simply relating something you were told), but this sounds like a BS shop story to me. Just another shop pissed off cause they didn't sale a blower. So they make horrifying stories to scare people away from buying used parts. Fact is the Whipple blower will outlast your truck many times over. Also there's no account of a Whipple disintegrating in to a motor. The spider gears are in a sealed compartment and can melt if there is an oiling problem, and if the screws get out of time they can damage themselves or scar the casing in extremes. But there's nothing in the Whipple that can blow apart and make it's way in to the motor. Not to mention go through the intercooler, down into the base of the manifold, and then back up through a runner. Lastly if the guy didn't listen when someone advised he have something checked out then the d-bag got exactly what he deserved. For more on what can happen inside a Twinscrew look here http://www.thehighspeedlab.com/catalogkbdiagnostic.html
#18
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Hey Customazation, I hope you are able to find a Whipple when you're ready at a great price. They are amazing. I'm extremely pleased with mine. I purchased it used 4 years ago for $3400 and haven't looked back. I've put 54,000 miles on it. Developed a slight oil leak on the front seal and replaced it, while it was off had Steigmier port it. I have ported the inlet to 90mm myself in order to use a 90MM Ford throttle body. No telling how many miles are on it. The nice thing about the Whipple is that it can grow with you. Whether you want 400rwhp at 6psi (stock kit) or you want to make 600-700rwhp with a built motor. But all that aside, there's some great advice in this thread. Be ready for the expense of more frequent maintenance. Oil changes at least every 4,000 miles using fully synthetic oil ($38). I also change mine after I drag race at the track regardless of miles. HT0 plugs gapped .032 every 10-15K miles ($80). Copper plugs wear quicker but provide the best performance. Fuel filter ever 10-15k ($9) Note: Just change it when you change the plugs. Easy to remember. For top performance and mpg's replace the O2 sensors every 70-75k. ($65) Working properly or not they start to slow at this age. You will likely want to replace the belt every 20-25k miles ($40). At the very least keep check on it as the miles build. I carry a spare belt with the jack under the seat so I don't have to worry. Tires ($$$$) And of course always run 91 or 93 octane whichever you're area has. Outside of that you don't "need" anything else but the kit itself. However a wideband a/f meter is great to have and can save your butt. Vac/boost gauge is nice to have. A true dual exhaust system with long tube headers will greatly reduce exhaust gas temps and which will reduce cooling temps. I recommend a 170F or 180F t-stat instead of the 160 in the kit. 39, 42, or 47lb fuel injectors and a custom tune from JDM will get you the best power, fuel economy, and longevity. Oh and relocate the IAT sensor to intake runner 5. Sensor P/N DY745 and plug P/N 3U2Z-14S411-JUA. Use wires from pin 1 gray/red and pin 6 Gray in your MAF plug to wire the sensor. That's about it. Get your HT0 (HTzero) from Advanceauto online. Use promo code P20 for 20% off. Get your injectors here http://www.blueovalindustries.com/engine/fuel.html best prices anywhere.
I've been meaning to get your take on the 160 T-stat whipple recommends. I'm not a huge fan of running a 160 and I would prefer to stay stock if its safe. Is whipple only recommending a 160 to protect from detonation? I always thought a lower then stock T stat was just a bandaid for insufficient cooling, or just another way to richen up the motor...
I also noticed that JDM kept the stock T stat in this whipple raptor build: http://www.raptorforumz.com/showthread.php?t=17855
If I did drop down to a lower temp thermostat, then I'd prob go no lower than 180.
#19
12 Second Truck
That hit's the nail on the head. Always be cautious. Exam the rotors or screws depending on what blower you're looking at. Minor surface scratches are normal. Blower should spin freely and smoothly without any scratching or grinding noises. Once installed the initial test drive should be done with ease and patients listening for anything that doesn't sound right.
#20
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Blown Ford - Thanks for all your input its really helping with my decisions, I first have to get the money for the supercharger, but would you recommend changing almost everything else first than doing the supercharger that way its just bolting it on? Or do the supercharger than the extras?